The book › Part Five — Reference

Glossary, indexes and finding aids

29,057 words · about 126 min read · chapter 24 of 25

BACK MATTER — FINDING AIDS AND READER TOOLS

Everything in this section exists to be looked things up in rather than read through. Cross-references are by recipe number throughout, never by page: R041 finds the same dish in the paperback, in the ebook and in any later edition. Mother preparations carry M numbers and live in Chapter 15.


1. Malayalam–English Food Glossary

A reference list, not a lesson: 173 words, each with a short English explanation and nothing more. No script, no pronunciation, no grammar. Alternative spellings are given once, here, so that a reader in front of a shop shelf can recognise what they are holding. Where a term names a technique or a utensil, the chapter that teaches it is named. Where an origin is genuinely disputed, that is said rather than smoothed over.

A

  • Ada — thin discs or ribbons of rice dough, sold dried, boiled soft for payasam. Also, confusingly, a steamed sweet parcel in a leaf; both meanings are current. R112, R113.
  • Achar — pickle: fruit or vegetable held in salt, oil, chilli and often fenugreek, eaten a teaspoon at a time. Also written achaar. R096, R097, R119.
  • Agni — in the traditional framework, the digestive fire, held to be strongest at midday; the stated reason the first rice course of a sadya arrives when it does.
  • Ammikkallu — the flat stone slab and roller for wet pastes. It crushes rather than cuts, which is why a stone-ground coconut paste behaves differently from a machine-ground one. Chapters 13 and 14.
  • Appam — a fermented rice-and-coconut pancake, lacy at the rim and spongy in the middle. Documented in Sangam-era Tamil literature, so pre-colonial despite the frequent claim of a Portuguese origin. M10, R001.
  • Appachatti — the small deep lidded pan with curved sides whose shape makes an appam. Chapter 13.
  • Arikkadukka — Malabar stuffed mussels, mentioned in this book for context rather than cooked in it.
  • Attappady Thuvara — a heirloom red gram maintained by Adivasi cultivators in Attappady, registered as a geographical indication.
  • Aval — flattened or beaten rice, used here as a binder. R039.
  • Avial — mixed vegetables bound with a ground coconut-and-cumin paste, finished with raw coconut oil and curry leaf. The legend attaching it to Bhima is a story rather than a documented origin. R069.
  • Ayala — Indian mackerel; oily, cheap, excellent, and one of the fish this book leans on hardest. R027, R028.

B

  • Beetroot — the loanword is the word; Kerala has no older name for it. Grated into a thoran (R067) and a pachadi (R090), where it is the sweetest thing on a savoury leaf. Chapter 12.

C

  • Carrot — the loanword is the word here too. Grated into R079, R099, R069 and the pulao, for sweetness and colour rather than for bulk. Chapter 12.
  • Chakka — jackfruit. Tender green chakka behaves as a vegetable, ripe chakka as a sugary fruit, and the two are effectively different foods. R116.
  • Chammanthi — a thick, dry, pounded chutney, usually coconut-based, eaten with kanji or rice.
  • Chattuvam — the flat wooden or coconut-shell turner. It lifts and folds where a metal spatula bruises and shreds. Chapter 13.
  • Chaya · chayakkada — tea, and the tea shop. The sweetening habit is later than the drink.
  • Cheena chatti — the deep cast-iron pan that is Kerala's wok; the name means "China vessel". Contested: the etymology records a perceived Chinese origin, and whether the shape actually arrived from China cannot be shown. Chapter 13.
  • Cheera — amaranth leaves, green or red, the red bleeding into a thoran. Sold abroad as callaloo, yin choy or Chinese spinach. R065.
  • Chembu — colocasia or taro; slippery when cooked, and the central tuber of Thiruvathira puzhukku. Must be cooked through.
  • Chemmeen — prawns. Lean and high in protein rather than oily. R032, R033.
  • Chena — elephant foot yam; large, brown, warty, cubed for mezhukkupuratti and erissery. Some varieties itch the throat, and the traditional remedy is acid in the cooking water. R071, R073.
  • Cherupayar — whole green gram, or its split skinned form, moong. R011, R114.
  • Cheriya ulli — Kerala's small pink-purple shallots. Sweeter, denser and lower in water than a large onion; sold abroad as Madras onions, sambar onions or small red onions.
  • Cherunaranga — the small thin-skinned Indian lime, used as a finishing acid.
  • Chirava · thenga chirava — the hand coconut scraper, bench-mounted or hand-cranked, which shreds the kernel into long wet flakes. Chapter 13.
  • Choru — cooked rice, in everyday speech.
  • Chukku — dried ginger, used in karkidaka kanji and in boiled herbal waters. R108.

D

  • Daahashamani — a boiled aromatic water of dry ginger, cardamom, clove and coriander seed, drunk warm; carminative in intent and plain in fact.
  • Dum — the sealed, low final phase of a biryani in which rice and masala finish together in their own steam. R018.

E

  • Elakka — cardamom.
  • Elayada — a steamed sweet parcel of rice dough with coconut and jaggery, cooked in a folded leaf. R115.
  • Erissery — a thick dish of pulse and tuber or pumpkin, bound with ground coconut and crowned with coconut roasted dark in the pan. R054, R071.
  • Ethakka — ripe Nendran plantain, the frying and steaming banana of Kerala. R100, R102.

G

  • Gandhakasala — an aromatic short-grain Wayanad rice, registered as a geographical indication; a more perfumed relative of jeerakasala.
  • Grambu — cloves.

I

  • Idiyappam — steamed nests of fine rice noodles, pressed through a mould. Pre-colonial; documented in Sangam-era Tamil sources. Also called noolappam. R005.
  • Idli — a steamed cake of fermented rice-and-urad batter. M11, R006.
  • Inchi — ginger.
  • Inji puli — the sweet-sour-hot ginger and tamarind relish of the sadya leaf. Also written injipuli and puli inji, and the two word orders are both in use. R098.
  • Ishtu — the Kerala stew: coconut milk, whole spices, no chilli powder, pale by design. Sometimes written stew on menus and nothing is lost. R041, R080.

J

  • Jathikka · jathipathri — nutmeg and mace, the seed and its lacy red aril, both grown in Kerala's midland gardens.
  • Jeerakam — cumin.
  • Jeerakasala — a short aromatic Wayanad rice, called kaima in Malabar, and the correct grain for Thalassery biryani. Registered as a geographical indication. R017, R019.

K

  • Kaadi — coconut vinegar: cloudy, mild, faintly sweet.
  • Kalan — a thick curd-and-coconut dish with yam or plantain, cooked down until it clings. Also written kaalan. R070.
  • Kadala — black or brown chickpea; the fibre champion of the Kerala pulses and the partner of puttu at breakfast. Sold abroad as kala chana or desi chana. R010, R055.
  • Kadala parippu — split Bengal gram, chana dal. Not to be confused with kadala.
  • Kaduku — mustard seed, where a Kerala tempering begins.
  • Kaithachakka — pineapple. Into a pachadi (R092) and a pulissery (R082), both Central Travancore sadya dishes. Chapter 12.
  • Kallummakkaya — the Asian green mussel, a Malabar specialism. R034.
  • Kanji — rice gruel, cooked loose in plenty of water; convalescent food, breakfast, and a late supper. R012, R020.
  • Kanji vellam — the starchy water from cooking rice, traditionally drunk. No clinical trial supports a metabolic claim for it, and Chapter 7 says so.
  • Kappa — tapioca, cassava. A Brazilian root that became a Malayali identity, promoted as a famine crop in Travancore and made a staple by wartime rice shortage. Peel, boil hard, discard the water.
  • Kariveppila — curry leaves. Also written karivepilla. Volatile and short-lived, which is why the dried leaf is a duller ingredient.
  • Karimeen — pearl spot, a brackish-water fish of the backwaters and Kerala's state fish since 2010. R029.
  • Karkidaka kanji — the medicinal rice gruel of the monsoon month Karkidakam, taken warm at night. R108.
  • Karuvapatta — cinnamon; also karugapatta. Kerala and Sri Lanka grow the true species; most supermarket cinnamon is cassia, and Chapter 9 explains why that matters.
  • Karuppatti — palm jaggery, darker and more mineral-tasting than cane jaggery, and no different metabolically.
  • Kasuvandi · andiparippu — cashew nut. Grown and processed in quantity around Kollam. In R017, R018 and R019, and throughout the swap lines as the substitute that replaces coconut milk with something lighter in saturated fat. Chapter 12.
  • Kayam — asafoetida.
  • Kichadi — a curd-based side with a cooked vegetable, close kin to pachadi; households draw the line between the two differently, and both usages are correct.
  • Koonthal — squid. R037.
  • Koorka — Chinese potato: small, knobbly, intensely aromatic, tedious to clean. R077.
  • Koottukari — a thick sadya dish of pulse with tuber or raw banana, on the astringent side of the six tastes.
  • Kothavara — cluster beans, slightly bitter and best in a coconut thoran.
  • Kozhi — chicken. R040, R043.
  • Kozhukkatta — a steamed dumpling of rice dough with a filling, savoury or sweet. R104.
  • Kozhuva — anchovy or whitebait, fresh or dried. R031, R036.
  • Kudampuli — the sun-dried rind of a Western Ghats Garcinia, smoky and deep, and the one Kerala acid that makes a curry improve overnight. Also written kodampuli and kudam puli; sold as Malabar tamarind, fish tamarind or gambooge. Chapter 9. R024, R026.
  • Kumbalanga — ash gourd, sold abroad as winter melon or wax gourd; the body of olan and pulissery. R068, R083.
  • Kurumulaku — black pepper.

M

  • Maida — refined white wheat flour, the material of the modern parotta and one of the four documented shifts in Chapter 2.
  • Mallii — coriander seed, which gives body rather than punch. Mallii ela is the leaf.
  • Manchatti — the unglazed earthenware pot; see meen chatti.
  • Manjal — turmeric.
  • Mappas — a coconut-milk curry with a sour note, usually vinegar, and a pepper finish. Sometimes written mappas and sometimes moppas. R035, R044, R051.
  • Matta — Kerala's everyday parboiled short-grain rice, reddish-pink from the bran. Palakkadan Matta is registered as a geographical indication; rosematta is the same family under a trade name. Anything labelled matta that is white and long is polished rice with a heritage word on the packet.
  • Mathi — sardine. The fish that punishes a bad buy hardest. R026.
  • Mathu — the wooden churner used for buttermilk and sambharam. R107.
  • Meen — fish. Meen chatti is the fish pot; meen vevichathu is the kudampuli fish curry; meen peera is the dry coconut-and-fish preparation.
  • Meen chatti — the unglazed clay fish pot, also called manchatti. Inert to acid, slow to heat and cool, and microporous, so a seasoned one carries something of the last curry into the next. Chapters 13 and 14.
  • Mezhukkupuratti — the dry vegetable dish without coconut; the name means "smeared with oil", making it the clearest case of a dish named for its technique. R073, R074, R077.
  • Mixie — the Indian jar blender, universal in Kerala kitchens. It cuts and heats where a stone crushes; Chapter 14 gives the workarounds.
  • Moilee — a pale, gentle coconut-milk fish curry. Also written molee, moily and molly, all for the same dish. R025.
  • Moonnaam paal — the third, thinnest coconut extraction. See onnaam paal.
  • Moru — buttermilk, or curd whisked with water. Moru curry and moru kachiyathu are its cooked forms. R081, R087.
  • Mulaku — chilli. Pacha mulaku is the green chilli, vattal mulaku the dried red.
  • Muringakka · muringayila — drumstick pods and moringa leaves, the highest-protein green here. Chapter 12's verdict: an outstanding food and a weak supplement. R066.
  • Muthira — horse gram, the leanest pulse here, hard as gravel and needing an overnight soak. Sold abroad as kollu, kulthi or hurali. R056, R057.
  • Mutta — egg. R046, R047.
  • Muttakoos — cabbage. Not a Kerala native and now entirely domesticated in the kitchen: R063, the thoran this book teaches the whole grammar on, and R079. Chapter 12.

N

  • Nadan — "of the country", local, home-style. Attached to a dish name it signals the household version rather than the restaurant one.
  • Nallenna — gingelly or sesame oil, pressed from raw seed and light golden; not the dark toasted East Asian oil, which is wrong here.
  • Nannari — the root of Hemidesmus indicus, simmered for a cooling drink. Also written nannari veru. R110.
  • Nendran — the large Kerala plantain, green as a vegetable and ripe as ethakka.
  • Neychoru — ghee rice. R017.
  • Neymeen — seer fish or kingfish, the special-occasion steak fish and the best source of omega-3 fats in these waters. Chapter 12 sets out the mercury caution honestly. R030.
  • Njavara — a short medicinal rice, used in karkidaka kanji. Also written navara. R108.

O

  • Olan — ash gourd and cowpea in thin coconut milk, barely spiced, finished with raw coconut oil. Quiet by design, and not silent. R068.
  • Onnaam paal · randaam paal · moonnaam paal — the first, second and third coconut-milk extractions. The first is a finish and must never boil; the later two are cooking liquid. Chapter 14. M08.

P

  • Pacha manga — hard green unripe mango, used as an acid and as flesh.
  • Pachadi — a curd-based side dish, sweet-sour, with fruit or a cooked vegetable. R090, R091, R092.
  • Pachakam · pachakavidhi — cooking, and method of cooking; the title of the 1953 newspaper column that began Kerala food writing.
  • Padavalanga — snake gourd, the lightest vegetable in this book at 12 kcal per 100 g. R075.
  • Palappam — the softer, thicker appam of Syrian Christian kitchens. R001.
  • Pappadam — the thin lentil wafer of the sadya leaf. Also written papadam, and sold in Indian shops outside Kerala as papad. Roasting it rather than frying it saves the whole fat load.
  • Parippu — dal, and by extension a dal curry. Cherupayar parippu is moong dal, toor parippu red gram. R058, R117.
  • Parotta — the layered maida flatbread of restaurant and roadside Kerala; not in this book's recipes and discussed in Chapter 2 as one of the four shifts.
  • Pathiri — the Malabar rice flatbread, in dozens of documented variants.
  • Pattani — peas. Used frozen in this book, in R013 and R019, and added late so they stay green. Chapter 12.
  • Pavakka — bitter gourd, at 21 kcal per 100 g. Chapter 12 reports that the two best syntheses of the human evidence found no significant effect on HbA1c or fasting glucose. R072.
  • Payasam · pradhaman — the sweet pudding that closes a feast. In the Namboothiri scheme payasam is the rice-based family and pradhaman the non-rice one; elsewhere the words are looser. R112 to R116, R120.
  • Pazham — ripe banana. Pazham nirachathu is the stuffed, steamed or fried version. R102.
  • Peera — a dry preparation of fish with grated coconut, cooked under a lid and finished uncovered. Also peera pattichathu. R031.
  • Perumjeerakam — fennel, the signature of Malabar meat cooking.
  • Podi — a dry roasted-and-ground powder: a masala blend, a chutney powder, or a seasoning for kanji. M02, M03, M06, R095.
  • Pokkali — a saline-tolerant Kerala rice grown in rotation with prawns, registered as a geographical indication.
  • Pollichathu — cooked in a wrapping of banana leaf on a griddle, the leaf browning and blistering while the fish steams inside. R029.
  • Porichathu — fried. R043.
  • Potassium chloride, food-grade — the 30% of the 70:30 salt (M07), sold as low-sodium or potassium salt. Not for a reader with chronic kidney disease, or on a RAAS inhibitor, a potassium-sparing diuretic or a potassium supplement, without a doctor's approval. Chapters 10 and 12.
  • Puli — tamarind, and more broadly sourness. Vaalanpuli is the tamarind pod.
  • Pulissery — a gently soured curd-and-coconut curry, often with fruit. R082, R083.
  • Puttu — steamed cylinders of moistened rice or ragi flour layered with grated coconut. Pre-colonial, with steam cooking described in a sixth-century Sanskrit text. R002, R003, R004.
  • Puttu kutti — the cylindrical puttu steamer, originally bamboo and now usually steel. The vessel gives the dish its name and its shape. Chapter 13.
  • Puzhukku — boiled and crushed tubers bound with a coconut paste.

R

  • Ragi — finger millet, ground to flour for puttu, dosa, kanji and pancakes. Also called nachni and wimbi. R003, R008, R021, R101.
  • Rasam — a thin, sharp, peppery tamarind broth, drunk as much as eaten. Also spelt rasam everywhere; the Tamil root milagu thanni, pepper water, is also the origin of Anglo-Indian mulligatawny. R086.
  • Rava — semolina, coarse-ground wheat, the material of upma. R013.

S

  • Sadya — the banana-leaf feast. Not a menu but a protocol: the leaf, the geometry, the order and the courses of rice all encode something. Chapter 27. R117 to R120.
  • Sambar — a tamarind-and-dal vegetable curry with its own spice blend. Contested: the Thanjavur court origin story is traditional rather than documented. M02, R059, R118.
  • Sambharam — spiced diluted buttermilk, drunk cold. R107.
  • Sevanazhi — the idiyappam press. The Kannada Lokopakara of 1025 CE documents both the dish and the mould-press, so this is a thousand-year-old documented instrument. Chapter 13.
  • Shaap — the toddy shop, and by extension its cooking: hard-seasoned, acid-forward, and the source of several dishes now considered restaurant classics.
  • Shadrasa — the traditional six-taste framework: sweet, sour, salty, pungent, bitter and astringent. Treated in this book as a traditional organising idea that happens to produce a varied plate, kept separate from clinical evidence.
  • Sharkara — cane jaggery. Sharkara upperi is the jaggery-glazed banana chip.
  • Sulaimani — the black spiced tea of Malabar, with lime. R111.

T

  • Thaalikkuka — tempering: whole spices and curry leaf bloomed in hot fat, at the start of some dishes and poured over the top of others. Also thaalippu. Which, and why, is the first technique in Chapter 14.
  • Thairu — set curd, yoghurt. Must never boil.
  • Thakkali — tomato. R088.
  • Tharavaad — the large joint household, and the kitchen that went with it.
  • Thattu dosa — the small thick griddle dosa of the roadside stall. R007.
  • Thattukada — the roadside food stall, and one of the four documented shifts in Chapter 2.
  • Thavi — the deep ladle. Chapter 13.
  • Theeyal — a dark, sour gravy built on coconut roasted almost to bitterness before grinding. R072, R084.
  • Thenga — coconut. Thenga kothu is the sliver cut; thengaappu the spent gratings left after milk is pressed, which still hold most of the fibre and are worth keeping.
  • Thenga aracha · thenga chertha — "with ground coconut" and "with coconut added": a paste cooked in and thickening, against milk added and enriching. The grammar of the whole cuisine, and the second technique in Chapter 14.
  • Thiruvathira puzhukku — the tuber dish of a rice-free women's festival; the one day the tubers take the centre of the leaf. Contested: sources place Thiruvathira in different Malayalam months.
  • Thoran — the dry vegetable dish with raw grated coconut crushed in at the end, cooked in the vegetable's own water under a lid. R063 is the master pattern.
  • Thooshanila — the tender tip portion of the banana leaf, the prized cut at a feast.
  • Toddy · kallu — fermented palm sap, and the original leaven of kallappam.

U

  • Ularthiyathu — cooked down and then dry-roasted in the pan until the masala crusts onto the meat and the coconut slivers darken. R033, R045, R048.
  • Ulli — onion or shallot. Ulli theeyal is the shallot theeyal. R084.
  • Uluva — fenugreek, and one of three spices whose trial dose Chapter 9 finds reachable through food. Every mention of it in this book carries the caution that it can lower blood glucose further in a reader using insulin or a sulfonylurea, which is a matter for their clinician.
  • Unakka meen — sun-dried salted fish, used as seasoning rather than as bulk. Rinse, soak, and add no further salt. R036.
  • Unakkalari — short-grain raw rice, the correct grain for a milk payasam. R120.
  • Unakkamundiri — raisin or sultana. A garnish in R018 and a sweetener in R102 and R103. Commercially dried pale fruit is usually sulphited, which is why those recipes carry a sulphites line. Chapter 12.
  • Unnakkaya — a Malabar sweet: ripe plantain pounded to a dough around a coconut filling, shaped as a small pod. Also written unnakaya. R103.
  • Upastharanam — the spoon of ghee poured over the first rice course of a sadya. R117.
  • Upma — a savoury dish of roasted semolina or millet cooked with vegetables. R013, R022.
  • Upperi — the broadest of the dry-vegetable words. In household speech a dry-cooked side, roughly interchangeable with mezhukkupuratti; on a sadya leaf, the deep-fried salted banana chip. Both meanings are correct. R079.
  • Uruli — the wide, shallow, heavy bell-metal or brass pan, the traditional vessel for payasam and for anything that needs slow reduction. Chapter 13.
  • Uzhunnu — urad dal, black gram; split and skinned for batters, whole for a tempering crackle.

V

  • Vanpayar — the red cowpea, and the Kerala pulse: thoran, erissery, olan. Also written van payar; sold abroad as black-eyed bean or lobia, though the Kerala variety is smaller and redder. R053, R054.
  • Varutharacha — coconut dry-roasted dark and then ground; a third register rather than a variant of thenga aracha. The third technique in Chapter 14. M09.
  • Vazhakkoombu · vazhapindi — plantain flower and plantain stem, the two most underused vegetables in the cuisine. R078.
  • Velichenna — coconut oil. Chapter 8 sets out what it is and is not; Chapter 14 sets out where this book keeps it and where it moves to sesame, groundnut or rice bran.
  • Vellarikka — cucumber, in its Kerala varieties. R091.
  • Vellayappam — a thicker, whiter, milder appam.
  • Velluthulli — garlic. The one spice in this book whose trial dose overlaps ordinary cooking; Chapter 9 gives the numbers.
  • Vendakka — okra. Chapter 12 notes that no human randomised trial of okra water has been verified, and that eating the pod delivers far more of its soluble mucilage than steeping it. R074.
  • Vevichathu — boiled, cooked in liquid; in practice, the kudampuli fish curry. R024.

Y

  • Yeast, instant — the modern alternative to toddy as the leavening in an appam batter (M10), at 2 g. Chapter 12.

2. English–Malayalam Quick Finder

The reverse lookup. If you know the English word and want the Kerala one, or the word to use in a shop, start here and then follow the glossary entry above.

English Malayalam
amaranth leaves cheera
anchovy, whitebait kozhuva
ash gourd, winter melon kumbalanga
asafoetida kayam
banana, ripe pazham; ethakka (Nendran)
banana leaf vazhayila; thooshanila (the tip)
beetroot beetroot
bitter gourd pavakka
black gram uzhunnu, urad
black pepper kurumulaku
buttermilk moru
cabbage muttakoos
cardamom elakka
carrot carrot
cashew nut kasuvandi; andiparippu
cassava, tapioca kappa
chicken kozhi
chickpea, black kadala
chilli, dried red vattal mulaku
chilli, green pacha mulaku
Chinese potato koorka
cinnamon karuvapatta
cloves grambu
cluster beans kothavara
coconut thenga
coconut, grated thenga aracha (ground); thenga kothu (slivers)
coconut milk thengapaal; onnaam, randaam, moonnaam paal
coconut oil velichenna
coconut vinegar kaadi
colocasia, taro chembu
coriander leaf mallii ela
coriander seed mallii
cowpea, red vanpayar
cucumber vellarikka
cumin jeerakam
curd, yoghurt thairu
curry leaves kariveppila
dal, split pulse parippu
drumstick pods muringakka
dried fish unakka meen
egg mutta
elephant foot yam chena
fennel perumjeerakam
fenugreek uluva
finger millet ragi
fish meen
garlic velluthulli
ghee ney
ginger, fresh inchi
ginger, dried chukku
green gram, moong cherupayar
horse gram muthira
jackfruit chakka
jaggery, cane sharkara
jaggery, palm karuppatti
lime cherunaranga
mace jathipathri
mackerel ayala
mango, raw green pacha manga
moringa leaves muringayila
mussels kallummakkaya
mustard seed kaduku
nutmeg jathikka
okra vendakka
onion, small; shallot cheriya ulli
pearl spot karimeen
peas, green pattani
pickle achar
pineapple kaithachakka
plantain flower vazhakkoombu
plantain stem vazhapindi
potassium chloride, food-grade low-sodium salt; potassium salt
prawns chemmeen
raisin, sultana unakkamundiri
rice, cooked choru
rice, parboiled red matta
rice, raw short-grain pachari, unakkalari
rice gruel kanji
rice, aromatic Wayanad jeerakasala, gandhakasala
rice flakes, flattened aval
sardine mathi
seer fish, kingfish neymeen
semolina rava
sesame oil nallenna
snake gourd padavalanga
squid koonthal
sweet potato madhura kizhangu
tamarind puli, vaalanpuli
tamarind, Malabar kudampuli
tea chaya
tomato thakkali
toor dal, red gram thuvara parippu
turmeric manjal
wheat, wholemeal gothambu
yeast, instant yeast
Cooking terms
boiled in liquid vevichathu
dry-roasted, of coconut varutharacha
dry vegetable dish with coconut thoran
dry vegetable dish, oiled, no coconut mezhukkupuratti
dry-roasted down to a crust ularthiyathu
fried porichathu
ground coconut, cooked in thenga aracha
coconut milk, added thenga chertha
tempering thaalikkuka, thaalippu
steamed in a leaf pollichathu
boiled and crushed tubers puzhukku
sweet pudding payasam, pradhaman
pickle, relish achar
powder, blend podi
the six tastes shadrasa
the feast sadya

3. The Recipe List, by Chapter

All 137 numbered preparations: 17 mother preparations and 120 recipes. Icons are the six-letter Kerala Plate strip — V vegetable-forward, P pulse included or completed by one, Q quick, B batch-friendly, F freezer-friendly, L low sodium, under 300 mg a serving.

Chapter 15 — Mother Preparations

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
M01 Kerala Garam Masala B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M02 Sambar Podi P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M03 Rasam Podi P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M04 Nadan Chicken Masala B · L [LOW SODIUM]
M05 Fish Masala B · L [LOW SODIUM]
M06 The Low-Sodium All-Purpose Podi P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M07 The 70:30 Salt Q · B [VEGAN]
M08 Coconut Milk, Three Extractions Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M09 Varutharacha Thenga B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M10 Appam and Palappam Batter B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M11 Idli and Dosa Batter P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M12 Ragi-Matta Dosa Batter P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M13 Fish Stock from Heads and Frames B · F · L [LOW SODIUM]
M14 Vegetable Stock, Kerala Aromatics V · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M15 Base Shallot Masala to Freeze V · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M16 Ginger-Garlic-Green Chilli Paste Q · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
M17 Thaliched Moru, Tempered Curd B · L [LOW GL] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 16 — Breakfast

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R001 Palappam P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
R002 Puttu, Matta Rice P · Q · L [LOW GL] [VEGAN]
R003 Ragi Puttu P · Q · L [LOW GL] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R004 Wheat and Coconut Puttu P · Q · L [VEGAN]
R005 Idiyappam P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
R006 Idli P · B · F [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R007 Thattu Dosa P · B [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R008 Ragi Dosa P · B [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R009 Oats and Matta Dosa P · B · L [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R010 Kadala Curry V · P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R011 Cherupayar Curry V · P · B · F · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R012 Kanji with Vanpayar V · P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R013 Vegetable Upma V · P · L [HIGH FIBRE] [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R014 Egg Roast, Rebuilt V · B · L [LOW GL] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 17 — Rice, Grains and the Grain Question in Practice

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R015 Matta Rice, Properly Cooked P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R016 The Chilled-and-Reheated Rice Method P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R017 Ghee Rice, Reworked P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN]
R018 Thalassery Chicken Biryani, Rebuilt P · B [HIGH PROTEIN]
R019 Vegetable Pulao with Jeerakasala V · P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGETARIAN]
R020 Kanji, Three Ways P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R021 Ragi Kanji Q · L [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R022 Millet Upma V · P · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R023 Kerala Khichdi V · P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]

Chapter 18 — Fish and Seafood

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R024 Meen Vevichathu P · B · F [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R025 Meen Moilee P · Q [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN]
R026 Mathi Curry P · B · F [LOW GL]
R027 Ayala Varuthathu, Baked P [HIGH PROTEIN] [LOW SAT FAT] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R028 Ayala Varuthathu, Fried and Measured [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R029 Karimeen Pollichathu P [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R030 Neymeen Mango Curry P [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN]
R031 Kozhuva Peera P · Q · L [LOW SODIUM]
R032 Chemmeen Theeyal P · Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R033 Chemmeen Ularthiyathu P · Q [LOW GL] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R034 Kallummakkaya Roast P [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R035 Fish Mappas P [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN]
R036 Unakka Meen Thoran V · P [HIGH FIBRE] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R037 Koonthal Roast P · L [LOW SODIUM] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R038 Fish in Banana Leaf P · B [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN]
R039 Baked Sardine Cutlets P · B · F

Chapter 19 — Chicken, Egg and Meat

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R040 Nadan Kozhi Curry P · B · F [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN]
R041 Kerala Chicken Stew V · B [HIGH PROTEIN]
R042 Pepper Chicken P · B · L [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN] [LOW SODIUM]
R043 Kozhi Porichathu, Rebuilt P · B · F · L [HIGH PROTEIN] [LOW SODIUM]
R044 Chicken Mappas B [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN]
R045 Chicken Ularthiyathu P · B · F [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN]
R046 Mutta Curry B [LOW GL]
R047 Egg Thoran V · Q · L [LOW GL] [LOW SODIUM] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R048 Beef Ularthiyathu, Traditional and Rebuilt P · B · F [LOW GL] [HIGH PROTEIN]
R049 Beef Curry with Coconut Slivers P · B · F · L [LOW GL] [LOW SODIUM]
R050 Mutton Stew V · B [HIGH PROTEIN]
R051 Duck Mappas V · B [HIGH PROTEIN]
R052 Liver Fry P · L [LOW SODIUM] [LOW SAT FAT] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 20 — Pulses and Legumes

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R053 Vanpayar Thoran V · P · B · F · L [LOW GL] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R054 Vanpayar Erissery V · P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R055 Kadala Ularthiyathu V · P · B · F · L [LOW GL] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R056 Muthira Thoran V · P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R057 Muthira Curry V · P · B · F · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R058 Parippu Curry V · P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R059 Sambar V · P · B · F · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R060 Parippu with Cheera V · P · Q · B · F · L [HIGH FIBRE] [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R061 Kerala Chana Masala V · P · B · F [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R062 Sprouted Moong Salad V · P · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 21 — Vegetables: The Half of the Plate

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R063 Cabbage Thoran V · Q · B · L [LOW GL] [VEGAN]
R064 Beans Thoran V · Q · B · L [LOW GL] [VEGAN]
R065 Cheera Thoran V · Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R066 Muringayila Thoran V · Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R067 Beetroot Thoran V · Q · B · F · L [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R068 Kumbalanga Olan V · P · L [LOW GL] [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
R069 Avial V · B · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R070 Kalan V · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN]
R071 Chena Erissery V · P · B · F · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R072 Pavakka Theeyal V · B · F · L [LOW GL] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]
R073 Chena Mezhukkupuratti B · L [HIGH FIBRE] [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R074 Vendakka Mezhukkupuratti V · Q · L [LOW GL] [LOW SAT FAT] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R075 Padavalanga Curry V · P · B · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R076 Raw Papaya Thoran V · Q · B · L [LOW GL] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R077 Koorka Mezhukkupuratti B · L [HIGH FIBRE] [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R078 Banana Stem Pachadi V · L [LOW GL] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R079 Cabbage and Carrot Upperi V · Q · B · L [LOW GL] [VEGAN]
R080 Mixed Vegetable Stew V · L [LOW SODIUM] [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN]

Chapter 22 — Curries, Pulissery and the Sour Family

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R081 Moru Curry Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R082 Pineapple Pulissery Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R083 Kumbalanga Pulissery V · Q · L [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R084 Ulli Theeyal B · L [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R085 Mango Curry Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R086 Rasam P · Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R087 Moru Kachiyathu Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R088 Thakkali Curry Q · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 23 — Salads, Pachadis, Chutneys, Podis and Pickles

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R089 Kerala Kitchen Salad V · Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R090 Beetroot Pachadi V · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R091 Cucumber Pachadi V · Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R092 Pineapple Pachadi V · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R093 Coconut Chutney, Rebuilt P · Q · B · L [LOW GL] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R094 Tomato Chutney V · Q · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R095 Kanji Podi P · B · L [LOW SODIUM] [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN]
R096 Low-Sodium Lime Achar B · L [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R097 Low-Sodium Mango Achar B · L [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R098 Inji Puli, Reworked B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R099 Carrot and Coconut Raita V · Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 24 — Tea Time, Rebuilt

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R100 Baked Ethakka Appam B · L [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R101 Ragi Banana Pancake B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGETARIAN]
R102 Pazham Nirachathu, Steamed L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R103 Unnakkaya, Rebuilt B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R104 Savoury Kozhukkatta P · B · F · L [LOW SAT FAT] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R105 Roasted Kadala Mix P · B · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R106 Chai, and the Sugar Arithmetic Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 25 — Drinks

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R107 Sambharam B · L [LOW GL] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R108 Karkidaka Kanji P · B · F · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN]
R109 Jeera and Methi Water, and What It Does Not Do L [LOW GL] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R110 Lime and Nannari Sharbat, Unsweetened B · L [LOW GL] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R111 Sulaimani Q · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 26 — Sweets and Payasam, Honestly

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R112 Palada Payasam, Rebuilt B · L [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R113 Ada Pradhaman, with the Arithmetic Shown B · F · L [VEGETARIAN]
R114 Cherupayar Payasam P · B · F · L [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R115 Elayada B · F · L [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R116 Chakka Pradhaman B · F · L [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

Chapter 27 — The Sadya, Re-engineered

No. Title Icons Attribute tags
R117 Sadya Parippu with Ghee P · B · F · L [LOW GL] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R118 Sadya Sambar V · P · B · F · L [HIGH FIBRE] [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R119 The Sadya Pickle and Relish Set B [VEGAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]
R120 Sadya Payasam, Portioned B · L [LOW SODIUM] [VEGETARIAN] [UNDER 250 KCAL]

4. Index by Dish Name, A–Z

Every recipe and every mother preparation in this book appears twice below: once under its Malayalam name and once under its English one, each carrying the number that will find it. Where a preparation has no Malayalam name — because it is this book's own construction rather than an inherited dish — it appears once, under the English. Names are alphabetised letter by letter, ignoring accents and punctuation. Nothing here is keyed to a page; the numbers are stable across the paperback, the ebook and any future edition.

A

  • Ada pradhaman · Rice ada in jaggery and coconut milk — R113
  • Amaranth green thoran · Cheera thoran — R065
  • Amaranth greens with dried fish · Unakka meen thoran — R036
  • Anchovies steamed dry with grated coconut · Kozhuva peera — R031
  • Appam and palappam batter · Fermented rice and coconut batter — M10
  • Ash gourd and cowpea in thin coconut milk · Kumbalanga olan — R068
  • Ash gourd in curd and coconut · Kumbalanga pulissery — R083
  • Attirachi ishtu · Mutton stew — R050
  • Avial · Mixed vegetables in coarse coconut-cumin paste — R069
  • Ayala varuthathu, baked · Mackerel baked with a chilli-masala rub — R027
  • Ayala varuthathu, fried · Kerala mackerel fry, with the oil weighed — R028

B

  • Baked plantain fritter · Ethakka appam, baked — R100
  • Baked sardine cutlets · Mathi cutlet, baked — R039
  • Banana stem pachadi · Vazhapindi pachadi — R078
  • Base shallot masala to freezeM15
  • Beef curry with coconut slivers · Nadan beef curry — R049
  • Beef fry, traditional and rebuilt · Beef ularthiyathu — R048
  • Beef ularthiyathu · Beef fry, traditional and rebuilt — R048
  • Beetroot pachadi · Pachadi, beetroot — R090
  • Beetroot thoran · Thoran, beetroot — R067
  • Bitter gourd and shallots in dark roasted coconut · Pavakka theeyal — R072
  • Black chickpea curry · Kadala curry — R010
  • Black chickpea roasted dry with coconut slivers · Kadala ularthiyathu — R055
  • Brown cowpea with grated coconut · Vanpayar thoran — R053
  • Buttermilk, warmed and tempered · Moru kachiyathu — R087

C

  • Cabbage and carrot upperi · Upperi, cabbage and carrot — R079
  • Cabbage thoran · Thoran, cabbage — R063
  • Carrot and coconut raita · Raita, carrot and coconut — R099
  • Chai, and the sugar arithmetic · Chaya — R106
  • Chakka pradhaman · Ripe jackfruit pradhaman — R116
  • Chaya · Chai, and the sugar arithmetic — R106
  • Cheera thoran · Amaranth green thoran — R065
  • Chemmeen theeyal · Prawns in roasted coconut and tamarind — R032
  • Chemmeen ularthiyathu · Dry prawn roast with coconut slivers — R033
  • Chena erissery · Elephant foot yam and cowpea erissery — R071
  • Chena mezhukkupuratti · Elephant foot yam, parboiled and oil-glazed — R073
  • Cherupayar curry · Whole green gram curry — R011
  • Cherupayar mulapichathu · Sprouted green gram salad — R062
  • Cherupayar payasam · Green gram payasam — R114
  • Chicken mappas · Kozhi mappas — R044
  • Chinese potato, boiled and glazed with pepper · Koorka mezhukkupuratti — R077
  • Coconut chutney, rebuilt · Thenga chammanthi — R093
  • Coconut milk, three extractions · Onnaam paal · randaam paal · moonnaam paal — M08
  • Country-style chicken and beef masala · Nadan chicken masala — M04
  • Cowpea and pumpkin erissery · Vanpayar erissery — R054
  • Cucumber pachadi · Vellarikka pachadi — R091

D

  • Dosa, oats and matta · Oats and red rice dosa — R009
  • Dry chicken roast with coconut slivers · Kozhi ularthiyathu — R045
  • Dry prawn roast with coconut slivers · Chemmeen ularthiyathu — R033
  • Duck mappas · Tharavu mappas — R051

E

  • Egg curry in coconut milk · Mutta curry — R046
  • Egg roast, rebuilt · Mutta roast — R014
  • Egg thoran · Mutta thoran — R047
  • Elayada · Steamed rice parcels of coconut and jaggery — R115
  • Elephant foot yam and cowpea erissery · Chena erissery — R071
  • Elephant foot yam, parboiled and oil-glazed · Chena mezhukkupuratti — R073
  • Ethakka appam, baked · Baked plantain fritter — R100
  • Everyday country chicken curry · Nadan kozhi curry — R040

F

  • Fermented rice and black gram batter · Idli and dosa batter — M11
  • Fermented rice and coconut batter · Appam and palappam batter — M10
  • Festival dal for the first rice course, with ghee · Sadya parippu — R117
  • Finger millet and banana pancake · Ragi pancake — R101
  • Finger millet and red rice batter · Ragi-matta dosa batter — M12
  • Finger millet dosa · Ragi dosa — R008
  • Finger millet porridge · Ragi kanji — R021
  • Finger millet puttu · Ragi puttu — R003
  • Fish in banana leafR038
  • Fish masalaM05
  • Fish stock from heads and framesM13
  • French bean thoran · Thoran, beans — R064
  • Fried chicken, rebuilt in the oven · Kozhi porichathu — R043

G

  • Garam masala, KeralaM01
  • Ghee rice, reworked · Neychoru — R017
  • Ginger, tamarind and jaggery relish · Inji puli, reworked — R098
  • Ginger-garlic-green chilli pasteM16
  • Green gram payasam · Cherupayar payasam — R114
  • Green mussels roasted dry with pepper · Kallummakkaya roast — R034
  • Green papaya thoran · Thoran, raw papaya — R076

H

  • Horse gram in a roasted-coconut gravy · Muthira curry — R057
  • Horse gram with coconut · Muthira thoran — R056

I

  • Idiyappam · String hoppers — R005
  • Idli · Steamed fermented rice and black gram cakes — R006
  • Idli and dosa batter · Fermented rice and black gram batter — M11
  • Inji puli · naranga achar · manga achar · The sadya pickle and relish set — R119
  • Inji puli, reworked · Ginger, tamarind and jaggery relish — R098
  • Ishtu, vegetable · Mixed vegetable stew — R080

J

  • Jeera and methi water, and what it does not doR109

K

  • Kadala curry · Black chickpea curry — R010
  • Kadala masala, Kerala · Kerala chana masala — R061
  • Kadala mix, roasted · Roasted black chickpea mix — R105
  • Kadala ularthiyathu · Black chickpea roasted dry with coconut slivers — R055
  • Kadumanga achar · Low-sodium mango pickle — R097
  • Kalan · Yam and green plantain in thick soured curd — R070
  • Kaleej varuthathu · Liver fry — R052
  • Kallummakkaya roast · Green mussels roasted dry with pepper — R034
  • Kanji podi · The dry podi that makes rice gruel a meal — R095
  • Kanji, three ways · Rice gruel, three ways — R020
  • Kanji with vanpayar · Rice gruel with cowpea — R012
  • Karimeen pollichathu · Pearl spot cooked in a banana leaf — R029
  • Karkidaka kanji · The monsoon gruel of Karkidakam — R108
  • Kerala chana masala · Kadala masala, Kerala — R061
  • Kerala chicken stew · Kozhi ishtu — R041
  • Kerala kitchen saladR089
  • Kerala mackerel fry, with the oil weighed · Ayala varuthathu, fried — R028
  • Khichdi, Kerala · Red rice and moong dal in one pot — R023
  • Koonthal roast · Squid roasted dry with pepper — R037
  • Koorka mezhukkupuratti · Chinese potato, boiled and glazed with pepper — R077
  • Kozhi ishtu · Kerala chicken stew — R041
  • Kozhi mappas · Chicken mappas — R044
  • Kozhi porichathu · Fried chicken, rebuilt in the oven — R043
  • Kozhi ularthiyathu · Dry chicken roast with coconut slivers — R045
  • Kozhukkatta, savoury · Steamed rice dumplings with a moong dal filling — R104
  • Kozhuva peera · Anchovies steamed dry with grated coconut — R031
  • Kudampuli fish curry · Meen vevichathu — R024
  • Kumbalanga olan · Ash gourd and cowpea in thin coconut milk — R068
  • Kumbalanga pulissery · Ash gourd in curd and coconut — R083
  • Kurumulaku kozhi · Pepper chicken — R042

L

  • Lace-edged fermented rice hopper · Palappam — R001
  • Lime and sarsaparilla sharbat, unsweetened · Nannari sharbat — R110
  • Little millet upma · Upma, millet — R022
  • Liver fry · Kaleej varuthathu — R052
  • Low-sodium all-purpose podi · Podi, the low-sodium all-purpose — M06
  • Low-sodium lime pickle · Naranga achar — R096
  • Low-sodium mango pickle · Kadumanga achar — R097

M

  • Mackerel baked with a chilli-masala rub · Ayala varuthathu, baked — R027
  • Malabar black tea with lime and spice · Sulaimani — R111
  • Mambazha pulissery · Ripe mango in curd and coconut — R085
  • Mathi curry · Sardine curry with kudampuli — R026
  • Mathi cutlet, baked · Baked sardine cutlets — R039
  • Matta rice, properly cooked · Red parboiled rice, properly cooked — R015
  • Meen mappas · Mild coconut-milk fish stew — R035
  • Meen moilee · Pale coconut-milk fish curry — R025
  • Meen vevichathu · Kudampuli fish curry — R024
  • Mild coconut-milk fish stew · Meen mappas — R035
  • Mixed vegetable stew · Ishtu, vegetable — R080
  • Mixed vegetables in coarse coconut-cumin paste · Avial — R069
  • Moong dal with amaranth greens · Parippu with cheera — R060
  • Moringa leaf thoran · Muringayila thoran — R066
  • Moru curry · Tempered buttermilk curry with ground coconut — R081
  • Moru kachiyathu · Buttermilk, warmed and tempered — R087
  • Muringayila thoran · Moringa leaf thoran — R066
  • Muthira curry · Horse gram in a roasted-coconut gravy — R057
  • Muthira thoran · Horse gram with coconut — R056
  • Mutta curry · Egg curry in coconut milk — R046
  • Mutta roast · Egg roast, rebuilt — R014
  • Mutta thoran · Egg thoran — R047
  • Mutton stew · Attirachi ishtu — R050

N

  • Nadan beef curry · Beef curry with coconut slivers — R049
  • Nadan chicken masala · Country-style chicken and beef masala — M04
  • Nadan kozhi curry · Everyday country chicken curry — R040
  • Nannari sharbat · Lime and sarsaparilla sharbat, unsweetened — R110
  • Naranga achar · Low-sodium lime pickle — R096
  • Neychoru · Ghee rice, reworked — R017
  • Neymeen manga curry · Seer fish with raw mango and coconut milk — R030

O

  • Oats and red rice dosa · Dosa, oats and matta — R009
  • Okra cooked dry and oil-glazed · Vendakka mezhukkupuratti — R074
  • Onnaam paal · randaam paal · moonnaam paal · Coconut milk, three extractions — M08

P

  • Paal payasam · Sadya milk payasam, portioned — R120
  • Pachadi, beetroot · Beetroot pachadi — R090
  • Pachadi, pineapple · Pineapple pachadi — R092
  • Padavalanga curry · Snake gourd and moong dal in coconut-cumin paste — R075
  • Palada payasam · Rice ada in reduced milk — R112
  • Palappam · Lace-edged fermented rice hopper — R001
  • Pale coconut-milk fish curry · Meen moilee — R025
  • Parippu curry · The sadya dal, with its spoon of ghee — R058
  • Parippu with cheera · Moong dal with amaranth greens — R060
  • Pavakka theeyal · Bitter gourd and shallots in dark roasted coconut — R072
  • Pazham nirachathu · Stuffed ripe plantain, steamed — R102
  • Pearl spot cooked in a banana leaf · Karimeen pollichathu — R029
  • Pepper chicken · Kurumulaku kozhi — R042
  • Pineapple pachadi · Pachadi, pineapple — R092
  • Pineapple pulissery · Pulissery, pineapple — R082
  • Podi, the low-sodium all-purpose · Low-sodium all-purpose podi — M06
  • Prawns in roasted coconut and tamarind · Chemmeen theeyal — R032
  • Pulao with jeerakasala · Vegetable pulao — R019
  • Pulissery, pineapple · Pineapple pulissery — R082
  • Puttu, matta rice · Steamed rice-and-coconut cylinder — R002
  • Puttu, wheat and coconut · Wheat and coconut puttu — R004

R

  • Ragi dosa · Finger millet dosa — R008
  • Ragi kanji · Finger millet porridge — R021
  • Ragi pancake · Finger millet and banana pancake — R101
  • Ragi puttu · Finger millet puttu — R003
  • Ragi-matta dosa batter · Finger millet and red rice batter — M12
  • Raita, carrot and coconut · Carrot and coconut raita — R099
  • Rasam · Tamarind and pepper broth — R086
  • Rasam podi · Rasam spice blend — M03
  • Rasam spice blend · Rasam podi — M03
  • Red parboiled rice, properly cooked · Matta rice, properly cooked — R015
  • Red rice and moong dal in one pot · Khichdi, Kerala — R023
  • Rice ada in jaggery and coconut milk · Ada pradhaman — R113
  • Rice ada in reduced milk · Palada payasam — R112
  • Rice gruel, three ways · Kanji, three ways — R020
  • Rice gruel with cowpea · Kanji with vanpayar — R012
  • Ripe jackfruit pradhaman · Chakka pradhaman — R116
  • Ripe mango in curd and coconut · Mambazha pulissery — R085
  • Roasted black chickpea mix · Kadala mix, roasted — R105
  • Roasted coconut paste, in freezer portions · Varutharacha thenga — M09

S

  • Sadya milk payasam, portioned · Paal payasam — R120
  • Sadya parippu · Festival dal for the first rice course, with ghee — R117
  • Sadya sambar · The festival sambar, at full scale — R118
  • Salt, the 70:30 blendM07
  • Sambar · Toor dal, tamarind and five vegetables — R059
  • Sambar podi · Sambar spice blend — M02
  • Sambar spice blend · Sambar podi — M02
  • Sambharam · Spiced buttermilk — R107
  • Sardine curry with kudampuli · Mathi curry — R026
  • Seer fish with raw mango and coconut milk · Neymeen manga curry — R030
  • Semolina rebuilt around its vegetables · Upma, vegetable — R013
  • Shallots in roasted coconut and tamarind · Ulli theeyal — R084
  • Snake gourd and moong dal in coconut-cumin paste · Padavalanga curry — R075
  • Spiced buttermilk · Sambharam — R107
  • Sprouted green gram salad · Cherupayar mulapichathu — R062
  • Squid roasted dry with pepper · Koonthal roast — R037
  • Steamed fermented rice and black gram cakes · Idli — R006
  • Steamed rice dumplings with a moong dal filling · Kozhukkatta, savoury — R104
  • Steamed rice parcels of coconut and jaggery · Elayada — R115
  • Steamed rice-and-coconut cylinder · Puttu, matta rice — R002
  • String hoppers · Idiyappam — R005
  • Stuffed ripe plantain, steamed · Pazham nirachathu — R102
  • Sulaimani · Malabar black tea with lime and spice — R111

T

  • Tamarind and pepper broth · Rasam — R086
  • Tempered buttermilk curry with ground coconut · Moru curry — R081
  • Tempered curd · Thaliched moru — M17
  • Thakkali chammanthi · Tomato chutney — R094
  • Thakkali curry · Tomato curry with shallots and coconut milk — R088
  • Thalassery chicken biryani, rebuilt · Thalassery kozhi biryani — R018
  • Thalassery kozhi biryani · Thalassery chicken biryani, rebuilt — R018
  • Thaliched moru · Tempered curd, with a mustard tempering — M17
  • Tharavu mappas · Duck mappas — R051
  • Thattu dosa · Thick griddle dosa — R007
  • The chilled-and-reheated rice methodR016
  • The dry podi that makes rice gruel a meal · Kanji podi — R095
  • The festival sambar, at full scale · Sadya sambar — R118
  • The Mappila plantain pod, steamed · Unnakkaya — R103
  • The monsoon gruel of Karkidakam · Karkidaka kanji — R108
  • The sadya dal, with its spoon of ghee · Parippu curry — R058
  • The sadya pickle and relish set · Inji puli · naranga achar · manga achar — R119
  • Thenga chammanthi · Coconut chutney, rebuilt — R093
  • Thick griddle dosa · Thattu dosa — R007
  • Thoran, beans · French bean thoran — R064
  • Thoran, beetroot · Beetroot thoran — R067
  • Thoran, cabbage · Cabbage thoran — R063
  • Thoran, raw papaya · Green papaya thoran — R076
  • Tomato chutney · Thakkali chammanthi — R094
  • Tomato curry with shallots and coconut milk · Thakkali curry — R088
  • Toor dal, tamarind and five vegetables · Sambar — R059

U

  • Ulli theeyal · Shallots in roasted coconut and tamarind — R084
  • Unakka meen thoran · Amaranth greens with dried fish — R036
  • Unnakkaya · The Mappila plantain pod, steamed — R103
  • Upma, millet · Little millet upma — R022
  • Upma, vegetable · Semolina rebuilt around its vegetables — R013
  • Upperi, cabbage and carrot · Cabbage and carrot upperi — R079

V

  • Vanpayar erissery · Cowpea and pumpkin erissery — R054
  • Vanpayar thoran · Brown cowpea with grated coconut — R053
  • Varutharacha thenga · Roasted coconut paste, in freezer portions — M09
  • Vazhapindi pachadi · Banana stem pachadi — R078
  • Vegetable pulao · Pulao with jeerakasala — R019
  • Vegetable stock, Kerala aromaticsM14
  • Vellarikka pachadi · Cucumber pachadi — R091
  • Vendakka mezhukkupuratti · Okra cooked dry and oil-glazed — R074

W

  • Wheat and coconut puttu · Puttu, wheat and coconut — R004
  • Whole green gram curry · Cherupayar curry — R011

Y

  • Yam and green plantain in thick soured curd · Kalan — R070

5. Index by Ingredient

Extracted from the ingredient lists of all 136 preparations. An ingredient is listed where it does real work in the dish; a garnish that could be left out without changing anything is not indexed. Sub-entries appear wherever a heading carries enough hits to need them. Salt is not indexed, because it appears in almost everything: for the low-sodium blend see M07, and for cooking without any added salt at all see M06, M13, M14 and M15.

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

  • Horse gram · muthiraR056 · R057

J

K

L

M

O

P

R

S

T

U

V

W

  • Wheat flour, wholemeal · attaR004 · R100

Y

- Yeast — M10

6. Index by Condition and Attribute

This is the index that makes the book usable by the reader who has been handed a blood test and told to change something. Membership is derived from the attribute tags printed on each recipe's title line, from the six-letter icon strip, and from the estimated nutrition panels — nowhere from opinion. Where a grouping is derived by a rule rather than lifted from a tag, the rule is stated so you can disagree with it.

6.1 By attribute

Under 250 kcal per serving · tagged [UNDER 250 KCAL], 63 recipes R006 · R011 · R014 · R020 · R021 · R024 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R032 · R033 · R034 · R036 · R037 · R047 · R052 · R054 · R058 · R059 · R062 · R067 · R069 · R071 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R078 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Note that R093 to R099 and R105 are portioned as a condiment or a snack rather than as a course, so their panels are per tablespoon or per weighed portion and are not comparable with a main dish. R101, at 261 kcal for two pancakes, is the one tea-time item that misses the threshold.

Low glycaemic load · tagged [LOW GL], 35 recipes R002 · R003 · R014 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R033 · R035 · R038 · R040 · R042 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R053 · R055 · R063 · R064 · R068 · R072 · R074 · R076 · R078 · R079 · R093 · R107 · R109 · R110 · R117

High protein · tagged [HIGH PROTEIN], 25 g or more of protein a serving, 18 recipes R018 · R024 · R025 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R035 · R038 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R048 · R050 · R051

High fibre · tagged [HIGH FIBRE], 6 g or more of fibre a serving, 28 recipes R003 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R019 · R022 · R023 · R036 · R053 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R065 · R066 · R069 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R075 · R077 · R080 · R105 · R118

Low sodium, under 300 mg a serving · the L icon, 93 recipes R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R031 · R032 · R037 · R042 · R043 · R047 · R049 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R120

All seventeen mother preparations also carry the L icon except M07, which is salt. R036 Unakka Meen Thoran is deliberately not on this list: no verified sodium figure exists for salted dried fish, its panel prints high — see note rather than a number, and it therefore carries neither the L icon nor the [LOW SODIUM] tag. Its recipe explains why, and offers a dried-fish-free version whose sodium is known.

Low saturated fat · tagged [LOW SAT FAT], under 5 g of saturated fat a serving, 19 recipes R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R013 · R015 · R016 · R027 · R052 · R060 · R073 · R074 · R077 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R100 · R101 · R104

Vegetarian · tagged [VEGETARIAN] or [VEGAN], 88 recipes R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Vegan · tagged [VEGAN], 62 recipes R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R015 · R016 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R079 · R080 · R084 · R086 · R088 · R089 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R100 · R102 · R104 · R105 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R118 · R119

Of the mother preparations, all are vegan except M13 fish stock and M05 fish masala, which is a spice blend and contains no fish.

Quick, 30 minutes or less start to table · the Q icon, 35 preparations M07 · M08 · M16 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R021 · R025 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R047 · R060 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R074 · R076 · R079 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R091 · R093 · R094 · R099 · R106 · R111

Every preparation on this list states a Total time of 30 minutes or less and needs no unattended time at all, which is what the Q icon means. Where a dish asks for unattended soaking, marinating, resting, fermenting, sprouting, cooling or chilling on top of that — whether the recipe calls it required or merely recommended — it does not carry Q however short the hands-on work is; read the Active figure on the recipe if that is the number that matters to your evening.

Batch-friendly, doubles cleanly and keeps · the B icon, 94 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · M17 · R001 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R020 · R023 · R024 · R026 · R038 · R039 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R063 · R064 · R067 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R079 · R084 · R088 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R100 · R101 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R107 · R108 · R110 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Freezer-friendly · the F icon, 43 preparations M09 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · R001 · R006 · R010 · R011 · R015 · R016 · R023 · R024 · R026 · R039 · R040 · R043 · R045 · R048 · R049 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R067 · R071 · R072 · R098 · R101 · R103 · R104 · R108 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118

Vegetable-forward, half the plate or more · the V icon, 49 preparations M14 · M15 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R019 · R022 · R023 · R036 · R041 · R047 · R050 · R051 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R083 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R094 · R099 · R118

Pulse-containing · a pulse in the ingredient list, not merely paired with one, 35 preparations M02 · M03 · M06 · M11 · M12 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R022 · R023 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R068 · R071 · R075 · R079 · R086 · R093 · R095 · R104 · R105 · R108 · R114 · R117 · R118

The wider P icon marks 70 preparations: those that contain a pulse and those that complete the plate when one is served beside them. Use the P icon to build a meal and this list to find the pulse itself.

One-pot and one-pan · cooked start to finish in a single pan, pot, pressure cooker, uruli or chatti, with no second cooking vessel named in the EQUIPMENT field, 63 recipes R001 · R010 · R011 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R017 · R019 · R021 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R028 · R030 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R035 · R036 · R037 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R044 · R045 · R047 · R049 · R050 · R052 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R079 · R080 · R084 · R088 · R091 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R102 · R106 · R108 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R116 · R117 · R120

No added oil, or minimal oil · no added fat at all, or 2 g or less of oil or ghee per serving, 74 recipes R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R015 · R016 · R020 · R021 · R031 · R036 · R038 · R047 · R053 · R054 · R056 · R058 · R059 · R062 · R065 · R066 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R075 · R078 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

R028, the honest fried mackerel, is deliberately excluded: its ingredient list states that about 38 g of the frying oil ends up in the fish, which is roughly 9 g a serving, and the recipe exists precisely so that the number is on the page.

Suitable for a packed lunch · dry-finished or firm dishes that hold four to six hours without reheating, do not leak, and are good cool, 45 recipes R006 · R013 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R022 · R023 · R027 · R031 · R033 · R036 · R037 · R039 · R045 · R047 · R048 · R052 · R053 · R055 · R056 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R073 · R074 · R076 · R077 · R079 · R089 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R100 · R101 · R104 · R105 · R119

One caution, and it is a food-safety one rather than a nutritional one. Cooked rice held at room temperature for hours is the one item on this list that carries a real risk. Chill it fast, carry it cold, and eat it the same day. R016 is built around exactly that handling and its own notes are the ones to follow.

Suitable for hosting · dishes that scale to a crowd, hold their quality for the half-hour between kitchen and table, and are what Kerala households actually put in front of guests. This grouping is editorial rather than computed, 45 recipes R001 · R010 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R029 · R030 · R034 · R038 · R039 · R040 · R041 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R061 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R080 · R084 · R090 · R092 · R093 · R098 · R103 · R107 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

6.2 The four condition finders

Every one of the four lists below is a grouping by nutritional attribute, not a prescription, not a treatment, and not a claim that any dish affects a disease; what to do about a blood test belongs to you and your clinician, and this index only tells you which recipes carry which numbers.

If you are watching blood sugar

Lower glycaemic loadR002 · R003 · R014 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R033 · R035 · R038 · R040 · R042 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R053 · R055 · R063 · R064 · R068 · R072 · R074 · R076 · R078 · R079 · R093 · R107 · R109 · R110 · R117

A pulse in the dish itselfM02 · M03 · M06 · M11 · M12 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R022 · R023 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R068 · R071 · R075 · R079 · R086 · R093 · R095 · R104 · R105 · R108 · R114 · R117 · R118

Higher fibre — the [HIGH FIBRE] list in 5.1

The grain itselfR015 and R016 are the two rice methods Chapter 7 is built on, and R016 carries a warning that applies specifically to readers using insulin or a sulfonylurea. Read it before you adopt the method.

If you are watching blood pressure

Under 300 mg sodium a serving — the 93-recipe L icon list in 5.1

Made with no added salt at allM06 · M13 · M14 · M15

The low-sodium condiments, where most household sodium actually hidesR095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R119

Vegetable-forward dishes, which are also the potassium-rich onesM14 · M15 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R019 · R022 · R023 · R036 · R041 · R047 · R050 · R051 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R083 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R094 · R099 · R118

The salt blendM07, the 70:30 potassium-and-sodium blend, cuts the sodium of any recipe made with it by roughly 30%. It is not for everyone: anyone with chronic kidney disease, anyone taking a RAAS inhibitor such as an ACE inhibitor or an angiotensin-receptor blocker, and anyone on a potassium-sparing diuretic or a potassium supplement should not use it without asking their clinician first. That carve-out is printed with M07 itself and every time the blend is mentioned in this book.

If you are watching cholesterol

Lower saturated fatR006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R013 · R015 · R016 · R027 · R052 · R060 · R073 · R074 · R077 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R100 · R101 · R104

Fish and seafood, the oily ones firstR026 and R039, both sardine; R027 and R028, mackerel; R030 and R035, seer fish; then R024 · R025 · R029 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R034 · R036 · R037

A pulse in the dish itself — the 35-recipe list above

No added oil, or 2 g or less a serving — the 74-recipe list in 5.1

What to read — Chapter 8 on coconut oil against coconut, and Chapter 14's oil table, which is where the saturated fat in this cuisine is actually decided.

If you are working on fat loss

Under 250 kcal a serving — the 63 tagged recipes in 5.1

Higher protein, for the 25 to 30 g a meal Chapter 5 sets outR018 · R024 · R025 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R035 · R038 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R048 · R050 · R051

Vegetable-forward, for the half of the plate that does the volume work — the 49-preparation V icon list in 5.1

No added oil, or minimal oil — the 74-recipe list in 5.1

Batch-friendly and freezer-friendly, because the strongest predictor of whether you keep eating this way is whether the food is already cooked when you are hungry — the B and F lists in 5.1


6.3 The allergen finder

Each list below is derived from the ALLERGENS line printed on every recipe, which is itself derived from that recipe's ingredient list and from the mother preparations it calls in. Read Chapter 12's note on allergens before you use these lists: they describe the recipes as this book writes them, and they cannot describe the jar in your cupboard. Asafoetida, curry powders, dried prawn, jaggery and commercially dried fruit all vary by brand, and shared equipment in a shop or a kitchen is not covered by any list. Where a recipe offers a choice — sesame oil or coconut oil, ghee or coconut oil, dairy milk or coconut milk — it appears in the free list only if the allergen-free option is taken, and those cases are named separately underneath. If an allergy in your household is severe, check every label yourself, every time.

Free of fish · 123 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M14 · M15 · M16 · M17 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R033 · R034 · R037 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Free of crustaceans · 135 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · M17 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R034 · R035 · R036 · R037 · R038 · R039 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Free of molluscs · 135 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · M17 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R035 · R036 · R038 · R039 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Free of egg · 131 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · M17 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R034 · R035 · R036 · R037 · R038 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R102 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Free of milk · 108 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R020 · R022 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R034 · R035 · R036 · R037 · R038 · R039 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R079 · R080 · R084 · R086 · R088 · R089 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R100 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R118 · R119

Free of milk only if you take the stated option: R021 (use the second-extraction coconut milk rather than dairy milk) · R115 (grease your palms with coconut oil rather than ghee)

Free of tree nuts (cashew) · 133 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · M17 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R020 · R022 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R034 · R035 · R036 · R037 · R038 · R039 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Depends on the choice you make — conditional: R021

Free of peanuts · 125 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M17 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R034 · R035 · R036 · R037 · R038 · R039 · R041 · R044 · R047 · R050 · R051 · R053 · R054 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120

Depends on the choice you make — these are free of peanuts only if you take the other of the two oils the recipe offers: M16 · R040 · R042 · R043 · R045 · R046 · R048 · R049 · R052 · R055 · R061 · R062

Free of sesame · 109 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M17 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R020 · R022 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R033 · R034 · R035 · R036 · R037 · R038 · R039 · R041 · R044 · R047 · R050 · R051 · R053 · R054 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R099 · R102 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R120

Depends on the choice you make — these are free of sesame only if you take the other of the two oils the recipe offers: M16 · R006 · R007 · R021 · R040 · R042 · R043 · R045 · R046 · R048 · R049 · R052 · R055 · R061 · R062

Free of mustard · 88 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R012 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R021 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R033 · R034 · R035 · R037 · R038 · R039 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R061 · R062 · R068 · R069 · R073 · R074 · R077 · R080 · R089 · R095 · R100 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R120

Free of soya · 137 of the 137 preparations All 137. No preparation in this book uses soya in any form.

Free of gluten (wheat) · 109 of the 137 preparations M01 · M04 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R018 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R025 · R031 · R032 · R035 · R036 · R038 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R098 · R099 · R101 · R102 · R103 · R104 · R106 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R120

Depends on the choice you make — conditional: M02 · M03 · M05 · M06 · M17 · R009 · R024 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R033 · R034 · R037 · R039 · R059 · R086 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R105 · R107 · R118 · R119

Free of sulphites · 134 of the 137 preparations M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06 · M07 · M08 · M09 · M10 · M11 · M12 · M13 · M14 · M15 · M16 · M17 · R001 · R002 · R003 · R004 · R005 · R006 · R007 · R008 · R009 · R010 · R011 · R012 · R013 · R014 · R015 · R016 · R017 · R019 · R020 · R021 · R022 · R023 · R024 · R025 · R026 · R027 · R028 · R029 · R030 · R031 · R032 · R033 · R034 · R035 · R036 · R037 · R038 · R039 · R040 · R041 · R042 · R043 · R044 · R045 · R046 · R047 · R048 · R049 · R050 · R051 · R052 · R053 · R054 · R055 · R056 · R057 · R058 · R059 · R060 · R061 · R062 · R063 · R064 · R065 · R066 · R067 · R068 · R069 · R070 · R071 · R072 · R073 · R074 · R075 · R076 · R077 · R078 · R079 · R080 · R081 · R082 · R083 · R084 · R085 · R086 · R087 · R088 · R089 · R090 · R091 · R092 · R093 · R094 · R095 · R096 · R097 · R098 · R099 · R100 · R101 · R104 · R105 · R106 · R107 · R108 · R109 · R110 · R111 · R112 · R113 · R114 · R115 · R116 · R117 · R118 · R119 · R120


7. Troubleshooting Index

Gathered from the TROUBLESHOOTING field of all 137 preparations and sorted by what went wrong rather than by which recipe it went wrong in. Where the honest answer is that a batch cannot be saved, the table says so; a reference section that pretends everything is recoverable is not useful. The last column names the recipes whose own notes go into more detail.

7.1 Batters that will not ferment or rise

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Batter did not rise overnight Kitchen too cold Oven light on, or a warm cupboard; give it longer Warmer grinding water, a warmer spot, or a quarter-teaspoon of instant yeast M11 · M12 · R009
Flat, dense idlis Dal under-ground, or batter over-fermented and collapsed — the same symptom from opposite causes Use the batter for dosa Grind the dal light and aerated; stop the ferment at its peak, not past it M11 · R006
Sour, sharp batter with no rise in the pan Over-fermented Use it for dosa or vellayappam, where sourness is an asset Shorter ferment, cooler spot M10 · M11 · R001 · R006
Barely rose at all Normal for ragi and oat blends Nothing; judge by smell and bubbles, not height Expect it M12 · R009
Appam with no lace and a thick opaque rim Batter too thick, or the pan swirled twice Thin with water a tablespoon at a time Swirl once, and only once M10 · R001
Dosa tears when spread, or sticks and shreds Batter too thick, or the griddle not hot enough or under-seasoned Thin the batter; heat the griddle longer, wipe with oil, rub with half a cut onion Season the iron and wait 20–30 seconds between dosas M11 · M12 · R007 · R008 · R009
Gritty flecks through the cooked dosa Ragi or oat flour went in dry Nothing for this batch Whisk the flour into water separately before it meets the batter M12 · R008 · R009
Bitter, paint-like taste The ragi flour is rancid Nothing will fix it Buy small quantities and keep them cold; ragi flour is finished at about three months at room temperature M12 · R003 · R008 · R101
Idlis stick to the plates Plates not greased, or unmoulded hot Rest them 2–3 minutes and try again Grease, and rest M11 · R006

7.2 Coconut milk or curd that has split

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Oil on the surface with grainy curds beneath The first-extraction milk boiled There is no repair Add the thick milk with the pan off the heat, and swirl rather than stir M08 · R025 · R035 · R040 · R041 · R044 · R046 · R050 · R068 · R080 · R108 · R113 · R114 · R116
Split even with the pan off the heat The pan was still too hot, or the milk was stirred in None Let the pan stand 60 seconds, then swirl R025
Second-extraction milk split Second extraction is forgiving but not immune None Off the heat for the later milks too R088
Curd split, with visible whey The curd boiled, went in cold, or was under-stirred Blending the finished dish smooth disguises it and it will taste right Lowest flame, constant stirring, off at the first shudder R069 · R070 · R078 · R081 · R087 · R090 · R092
Pulissery thin and bitter The pineapple was not cooked long enough before the curd went in, and its bromelain has cleaved the milk protein None Eight minutes minimum, then off the heat before the curd R082
Lumpy, with set pieces of curd Not whisked smooth before heating; heat sets those lumps permanently Pass it through a sieve and whisk again Whisk the curd alone first, then dilute R087 · R107
Frozen coconut milk thawed grainy Normal Blend it 10 seconds and it comes back Nothing to change M08

7.3 Thorans that are wet or mushy

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Wet and heavy Pan too small, lid left on too long, or water added Uncover and cook it dry over a higher flame; you will recover most of it The widest pan you own, and no added water R047 · R063 · R079
Gluey, pasty coconut The crush was ground to a paste Nothing rescues this batch Pulse, do not grind; stop while the coconut is still recognisable R063 · R069
Wet, claggy pulse thoran The beans were not drained, or the coconut went in with them Cook it dry uncovered Drain hard; coconut first, beans second R053
Greens dark, wet and sour A lid was used, or the pan was too small Not recoverable; the flavour has gone Widest pan, no lid, high flame, short cook R065
Vegetable grey and sulphurous, or khaki and limp Overcooked Nothing Cut finer and cook faster, not slower R063 · R064
Greens turned brown Too much acid, too high a flame, or an iron pan Nothing Medium heat, and no lime until serving R036
Vegetable collapsed to mush Beginning to ripen, or two minutes too long Nothing Test early and often R076
Peera wet and pasty Not enough time uncovered, or water was added Keep going with the lid off No added water at any point R031
Tastes of raw coconut The coconut did not get its two minutes in the pan Return it to a low flame briefly Give it the time the recipe states R047 · R058

7.4 Curries that are thin, oily or bitter

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Thin, watery gravy Shallots rushed, liquid not reduced, or tomato added before the water had gone Lift the solids out, reduce the liquid uncovered 4–6 minutes, return them Reduce before the coconut milk goes in; after it, you cannot R024 · R040 · R041 · R044 · R049 · R057 · R061 · R071 · R075 · R080 · R083
Bitter, ashy taste through the whole dish The coconut went past dark toast into burnt when M09 was made Nothing buries it; start the paste again — seven minutes Chapter 14 gives the three stages of the roast; stop at stage three M09 · R010 · R032 · R054 · R071 · R072 · R084
Bitter, with a burnt-seed edge The fenugreek in the tempering went past reddish-brown Start the tempering again Fenugreek wants 10–15 seconds, not a minute M02 · M05 · R059 · R088 · R096 · R098 · R118
Tastes of raw chilli powder, or dusty The powders were not fried, or the podi went in at the end Simmer another 8–10 minutes; it will come round Powders need 2–3 minutes in oil and a podi needs 6–10 minutes in liquid M02 · M04 · M05 · R010 · R024 · R057 · R059 · R061 · R118
Greasy, with a fat layer on top Skin or fat pads left in Skim it off with a spoon Skin and trim the bird or the meat R051
Metallic, dull greyish colour Tamarind or tomato acid reacted with the pan Nothing Clay, stainless steel or enamel; never bare cast iron or aluminium R024 · R084 · R088
Harshly sour Too much tamarind, or it went in unstrained with its fibre Add 3 g of jaggery, which is traditional in some households Strain it, and 10 g of pulp is enough for four R057 · R084
Flat and sweet where it should be sharp Not enough pepper, or not enough vinegar Add both, off the heat A mappas that does not taste faintly sour is a stew with more spice in it R044 · R049 · R051
Bitter tempering Mustard seed burnt, or the curry leaves sat in oil that was not hot enough Start the tempering again in a clean pan Mustard should pop and stop; leaves want 10–15 seconds R087 · R090 · R093 · R094 · R099 · R118

7.5 Fish that fell apart or overcooked

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Fish broke up into the gravy It was stirred, it went in before the gravy thickened, or it was not fresh A broken fish curry is still a very good sauce Shake the pot, never stir it R024 · R026 · R031
Fish tough and dry in a coconut-milk curry It cooked twice, once in the gravy and again while the milk went in Nothing Pan off the heat before the milk, and the fish only just set R025 · R035
Prawns tough and rubbery More than four minutes; they go from raw to overdone in about 90 seconds Nothing Lift them out and return them for the last 90 seconds; watch the curl R032 · R033
Squid rubbery Cooked 5–10 minutes, which is exactly the wrong amount Braise it another 10 minutes and it will come back Under 3 minutes, or over 15 R037
Mussels tough and squeaky Held at a simmer, or cooked twice — steamed open and then cooked again Nothing Dry pan, high flame, short time R034
Baked fish dry and cottony Overcooked, which happens in the last three minutes Nothing Pull it when the thickest part has just gone opaque R027
Fried fish greasy Pan not hot enough, fish went in wet, or the pan was crowded Nothing Two fish at a time, patted dry, and test the oil first R028
Crust or spice rub came off The fish was moved before it released, or the paste was too wet Nothing Thicker paste, drier fish, hot and brushed rack, and let it release itself R027 · R028 · R039
Bitter fish The black line inside the cavity was not scraped out, a gall bladder burst, or the fish was not gutted Nothing fixes it Clean carefully, and cut away anything green-tinged R026 · R031
Leaf split and the masala leaked out The leaf was not softened, or was folded against the grain Nothing for that parcel Ten to fifteen seconds over a flame changes the leaf completely; fold along the ribs R029 · R038 · R102 · R115

7.6 Rice that is sticky, hard or gluey

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Chalky white core after 30 minutes Not enough water, or the flame too low to hold a simmer Add 100 ml boiling water, cover, 8–10 minutes Matta needs the water and the time; do not rush the simmer R015
Gluey, collapsed grains Overcooked by three or four minutes, or stirred during the simmer Nothing The absorption method wants no stirring at all R015 · R020
Kanji thick, gluey and pasty Stirred too often, or cooked too fast so the water went before the grain softened Add boiling water, drop the flame, stop stirring Low and slow, and a pan twice the height of the finished liquid R012 · R020 · R108
Rice still hard after the full time Matta needs longer, or it went in unsoaked Sprinkle boiling water over the surface, cover, 5–10 minutes Soak the rice 30 minutes and it will cook in 25 R012 · R020 · R023
Biryani rice mushy below, hard on top The masala was too wet, or the flame too high during the dum Nothing Boil the masala down until a spoon drawn across the base leaves a clear track R018
Biryani rice hard throughout after the dum Drained too early, or the seal leaked Sprinkle 60 ml hot water over the surface, reseal, 8–10 minutes Six minutes is the floor for the parboil, and the seal must hold R018
Ghee rice sticky and clumped Too much water, or stirred during the covered cooking Nothing Jeerakasala at 1.9 parts water by weight; basmati wants 1.7 R017
Reheated rice dry and faintly hard Not enough water, or reheated uncovered Two to three tablespoons per portion and a lid The same, from the start R016
Reheated rice smells sour or faintly fermented It cooled too slowly, or has been refrigerated longer than 24 hours Throw it away. This is the one place in the book where the answer is not a rescue Cool it fast, spread thin, and use it inside 24 hours R016
Payasam rice still hard after an hour Parboiled or long-grain rice was used It will not break down; start again Short round raw rice only R120
Millet sticky and porridge-like Not roasted, or cold water used Nothing Roast it, and use hot water R022

7.7 Pulses that will not soften

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Chickpeas still hard after full pressure Old stock, a short soak, or salt added at the start Another 8–10 minutes under pressure Overnight soak, salt late; there is no rescue at the gravy stage R010 · R055 · R061 · R105
Horse gram never softens Old pulses, or a soak under 10 hours Not fixable once cooking has started Ten to twelve hours in plenty of water, and change the water R056
Beans still hard after the full time Old pulses, or hard water Another five minutes will help If it does not, they are too old to save; buy pulses from a shop that turns them over R053 · R064
Beans burst and turned to mush Overcooked, or split dal used where whole was meant Nothing Release the pressure naturally and check two minutes early R011 · R012 · R053
Dal disintegrated to soup Cooked too long, or not dry-roasted first Nothing Roast, then watch it R058 · R075
Grainy, chalky pulse in a sweet The dal was not fully soft before the jaggery went in, and sugar slows the softening of pulses considerably Nothing; once the jaggery is in, what you have is what you get Get it soft first R114 · R117
Skins everywhere and floury insides Kabuli chickpeas used instead of kadala, or five minutes too long Nothing Small dark kadala, and check early R055
Beans did not sprout Old pulses, split beans, or too cold a jar Discard and start again with twice-daily draining Whole moong only; split moong will never sprout R062

7.8 Pickles showing signs of spoilage

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Mould on the surface within a fortnight Water somewhere — a damp jar, damp fruit, or a wet spoon Discard the jar. Mould in a pickle is not something to scrape off Sterilise and dry the jar completely, dry the fruit, dry spoon only R096 · R097 · R119
Liquid does not cover the solids Under-filled, or the fruit swelled Add 20 ml more vinegar and 10 g more oil Exposed fruit is where a jar fails; keep the oil layer over the surface R097
Mushy within a week The mango was not fully unripe, or the salting step was skipped Nothing Rock-hard fruit, and do not skip the salting R097
Peel still tough after a week The salting was too short, or the limes were thick-skinned Leave it another week; it will soften Small thin-skinned limes R096
Unbearably bitter Pith from large thick-skinned limes, or burnt fenugreek Nothing Small thin-skinned limes, or halve the lime and add lemon R096 · R119
Burnt taste throughout The chilli powder went into hot oil Nothing Chilli powder goes in off the heat, every time R096 · R097 · R119
Harsh and raw after a week It simply needs longer Wait Fenugreek and mustard round out over about two weeks R097 · R098

7.9 Steamed items that are dense or dry

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Puttu a solid heavy plug Too much water, or the mix was packed into the cylinder Nothing Rake, never pack; both faults are invisible until it comes out R002 · R003 · R004
Puttu falls apart as dry powder Under-hydrated Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of water over the crumb, rake, re-steam Hydrate to a crumb that holds when squeezed and breaks when raked R002 · R004
Dense and rubbery, or grey and heavy Too much water, or over-steamed Nothing Nine to ten minutes is the ceiling R003 · R004
Tastes of raw flour or pasty The flour was unroasted, or it is under-steamed Three minutes more in the steamer; there is no other fix Dry-toast the flour, and use water at a full boil where the recipe says so R002 · R004 · R005 · R104
Idiyappam strands fused into a mat Over-steamed, or pressed too densely onto the plate Nothing Thinner layers, fewer per plate R005
Dough will not go through the press, or strands break The dough cooled, or is too dry Add 1–2 tablespoons of boiling water and knead it again hot Work hot, and keep the rest of the dough covered R005
Dumpling or parcel burst, filling leaked Filling too wet, overfilled, or the seam unsealed Nothing A teaspoon per 23 g of dough is the limit; press the seams closed R103 · R104 · R115
Dough cracks when flattened Not enough water, or worked cold Wet your palms and knead again while warm; add a tablespoon of boiling water if it has gone cold Keep it warm and covered R103 · R104 · R115
Wet, gummy centre in idlis Moulds overfilled, or the lid dripped condensation in Nothing Wrap the steamer lid in a cloth R006
Steamed parcels watery Condensation dripped from the lid Nothing Lay a cloth under the lid R102
Tough and rubbery dumplings Over-steamed, or reheated in a microwave Nothing Reheat by steaming, briefly R104

7.10 Dishes that taste flat after salt reduction

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Tastes flat despite the salt It needs acid, not more sodium Add the other half of the lime and taste again Build the acid in as seasoning, not as garnish R023 · R075 · R089 · R107 · R110
Thin and sharp, with no body Not enough ground coconut, or very thin sour curd Add 15 g more ground coconut, or a tablespoon of rice flour slaked in cold water Coconut and dal are the body; salt never was R081
Olan tastes of nothing The final teaspoon of raw oil was skipped, or the chilli went in whole Add the raw oil now Slit the chilli, correct the salt, and never skip the finishing oil R068
Fish curry bland Under-peppered rather than under-salted, nine times out of ten Crush 2 g more pepper and stir it in Pepper at two stages, some at the end R035
Thoran bland Under-chillied; muthira, snake gourd and green papaya all need more heat than you expect More green chilli, off the heat Take the salt and chilli to the top of the stated range for these three R056 · R075 · R076
Beetroot flat and earthy Geosmin, the earthy compound, needs an acid against it A teaspoon of lime juice off the heat Acid in every beetroot dish R067
Too salty Dried fish not soaked twice, or salt added where the recipe said not to Stir in 100 g more cooked greens and a squeeze of lime to spread the load Soak dried fish twice and add no further salt R034 · R036
Podi tastes of nothing Curry leaves damp, or the dals under-roasted Nothing; both faults are invisible until you taste Dry the leaves, roast the dals properly M06 · R095
Kanji bland Kanji is meant to be plain; the flavour is supposed to be beside it Add the chammanthi or the podi Serve it with something, not saltier R012 · R020
Sambharam or sharbat tastes watery Under-seasoned rather than over-diluted Add lime, then salt in 0.25 g increments; the improvement is startling Season before you dilute R107 · R110

7.11 Spice blends, pastes and the salt jar

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Blend tastes bitter or ashy One spice scorched while the others were still pale Nothing; a scorched blend does not recover Roast each spice separately to its own colour, and take coriander and fenugreek off early M01 · M02 · M03 · M04 · M05 · M06
Podi caked solid in the jar Ground or jarred warm, so the residual moisture condensed Break it up and dry-roast it 2 minutes; use it within a week Cool completely on a tray before jarring, and keep the jar out of the steam of the hob M01 · M02 · M03 · M06 · M07 · R095
Rasam hot rather than fragrant Too much pepper against the cumin, or the cumin under-roasted Add a spoonful of roasted cumin to the jar and re-blend Weigh both; the ratio is the whole recipe M03 · R086
Podi sandy or gritty on the tongue Ground too coarse, or the grinder overloaded Sieve and re-grind the tailings Grind in two small batches rather than one large one M03 · M06 · R095
Metallic aftertaste in the salt The potassium fraction is too high for your palate Re-blend at 80:20 and work down again over a few months Taste the blend on food, not on a fingertip, before you commit a jar M07
Paste bitter The grinder jar warmed during grinding, or the garlic browned Nothing Grind in short bursts and let the jar cool between them M16 · M17
Paste stringy The ginger was ground with the garlic, or it was old and woody Re-grind alone Grind ginger first, on its own, and cut out the woody core M16
Paste turned bluish-green A harmless reaction between garlic's sulphur compounds and trace acids and metals Safe to eat, though it usually means the jar is past its best Freeze in portions rather than keeping a jar M16
Paste sharp and stale It is over a week old Discard Freeze at 15 g a cube on the day you make it M16

7.12 Stocks, freezer bases and made-ahead jars

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Stock cloudy It boiled rather than simmered Strain through a cloth; it will taste fine and look worse Bare tremble only, and skim the first ten minutes M13 · M14
Stock bitter Gills left in, or the bones cooked too long Nothing Take the gills out, and stop a fish stock at 25–30 minutes M13 · M14
Stock strongly fishy rather than sweet Oily fish frames, or frames that were not fresh Use it in a heavily spiced curry or discard it White-fleshed frames only, on the day they were cut M13
Stock tastes of nothing Too much water for the trimmings, or no reduction Reduce it hard by a third Weigh the trimmings against the water and reduce before you store it M14 · M15
Stock sulphurous or cabbagey Brassica cores or bitter gourd trimmings went in Nothing Keep both out of the stock bag M14
Base masala sharp and oniony The shallots were not cooked far enough Return it to the pan for another 10 minutes Cook until there is no white left anywhere in the pan M15 · R014
Base burnt at the edges Flame too high, or the pan too thin Discard the burnt layer; do not stir it through Heavy pan, low flame, and stir every few minutes M15 · R014
Frozen cubes will not release Tray overfilled, or frozen less than four hours Stand the tray in warm water for 20 seconds Fill to two-thirds and freeze overnight M15
Tempered curd lumpy The curd was not whisked alone before the water went in Pass it through a sieve Whisk first, then add water in three additions M17
Tempered curd watery and separated by day two Low-fat or stabilised curd, or over-thinning Nothing Full-fat set curd, and start with less water M17

7.13 Dry roasts, fries and mezhukkupuratti that will not crust

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Pale and steamed rather than roasted The pan was crowded, or the meat went in wet Take half of it out and roast in two batches Dry the surface, use a wide pan, and leave the pieces alone between turns R033 · R042 · R043 · R045 · R048
Masala pasty rather than crusted Liquid still in the pan when the roast began Raise the heat and keep moving it until the pan is dry Drain the braise properly before the roast starts R045 · R048 · R055
Coconut slivers burnt while the meat is still wet The coconut went in too early Pick out the worst of it Add the slivers in the last five minutes, not the first R045 · R048
Meat tough after the full braise The cut was wrong, or the braise was cut short Another 20–30 minutes with the lid on Chuck, shoulder or blade, and judge by the meat rather than the clock R048 · R050
Meat dry and stringy though tender Too lean a cut taken too far Nothing Stop the braise at the point the fibres give, and roast fast R048
Liver grainy, dry and metallic Cooked past the point where it is faintly pink inside Nothing Two minutes a side on a hot pan, and rest it off the heat R052
Liver stuck and tore The pan was not hot enough, or it was moved too early Nothing Hot pan, and leave it until it releases itself R052
Chicken bitter or harsh at the finish The pepper scorched Nothing Crush the pepper coarse and add it late R042
Crust fell off in sheets The coating went on wet, or the piece was moved too soon Press the crust back and finish it Dry the surface, coat thinly, and turn once R043
Pieces broke into mash The par-boil went too far Use it as a mash and say so Par-boil until a skewer meets resistance at the centre R073 · R077
No colour after twelve minutes Pan too crowded, or flame too low Raise the flame and spread the pieces out Wide pan, single layer, and do not stir for the first four minutes R073 · R074
Okra slimy Wet okra, or too much stirring early Raise the heat and leave it alone until the slime dries off Wipe the pods dry, cut them dry, and do not add salt until the end R074
Okra tough and stringy The pods were over-mature Nothing Buy pods that snap rather than bend R074
Burnt outside, raw inside Flame too high for the thickness of the cut Nothing Lower the flame and cut thinner R074 · R077
Itchy hands after handling chena Calcium oxalate crystals in the raw yam Rinse with lime juice or a little oil Oil your hands before you peel it, or wear gloves R073 · R071
Half the koorka went in the bin Peeled rather than scrubbed Nothing Scrub in a cloth or a coarse bag; koorka is not peeled R077
Gritty Soil left in the crevices Nothing for this batch Two washes, the second after scrubbing R077

7.14 Gruels, upma, drinks and the softer breakfasts

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Lumps in a flour gruel The flour met hot water directly Sieve it, or blend it smooth Slake the flour in cold water first, then add the boiling water R021 · R013 · R112
Gluey, pasty upma Semolina under-roasted, or too much water Nothing Roast the rava until it smells nutty and moves loosely, and measure the water R013
Upma dry and crumbly, or watery and loose The water ratio, either side of it Add boiling water a tablespoon at a time, or cook it out uncovered Weigh the rava and measure the water R013
Gruel sets to a solid block before you eat it Normal for ragi; the starch sets fast as it cools Loosen with hot water or milk Serve it straight from the pan R021
Chalky, raw-cereal taste The flour was not cooked out Another 3–4 minutes at a simmer, stirring Cook until the gruel goes glossy and stops tasting of flour R021
Vegetables mushy while the rice is right, or hard while the rice is done Everything went in at once Nothing Stage the vegetables by density, hardest first R019 · R013
Watery base under a rice dish The masala was not reduced before the rice went on Uncover and drive the moisture off Reduce until the oil separates before the rice goes in R019
Tea bitter and flat Over-boiled, or the leaf boiled with the milk Nothing Boil the water and spices, steep the leaf off the heat, add hot milk last R106 · R111
No foam Not pulled, or pulled from too low Pull it between two vessels four or five times Pull from as high as your nerve allows R106
Tea weak and watery even after four minutes Not enough leaf, or the water was off the boil More leaf, not more time Weigh the leaf; time does not substitute for quantity R111 · R106
Lime tastes cooked and slightly bitter It went in hot Nothing Lime after the strain, off the heat R111
Cloudy when it cools Tea cream — a harmless complex of polyphenols and caffeine Nothing; drink it Expect it in a strong black tea R111
Infusion unbearably bitter, or slimy to swallow Too much fenugreek, or too long a steep Halve the seed and shorten the steep Start at half the quantity and work up R109
Payasam scorched, with brown flecks The milk caught on a thin base Decant off the top and leave the base behind Heavy pan, low flame, and stir the bottom rather than the surface R112 · R120
Payasam grainy or slightly separated The milk boiled after the acid or the ada went in Nothing Reduce first, then add, and never at a rolling boil R112
Too thin after cooling Reduced too little Return it to the heat Reduce to the volume the recipe gives, not to the clock R112
Baked fritter soggy and pale, or bitter at the edges Oven too cool, or the tray crowded; bitter edges are scorched batter Nothing Hot oven, spaced pieces, and pull them at colour rather than at time R100
Batter slid off the plantain The fruit was wet Nothing Dry each piece before it is dipped R100

7.15 Curries, pachadis and the last course that split, weep or taste flat

Symptom Likely cause What to do now Differently next time Recipes
Curd or coconut-milk curry split with an oily surface It boiled after the curd or the first milk went in Take it off, cool it a little and whisk; the flavour survives, the look does not Add off the heat, and never bring it back to a boil R030 · R085 · R091
Fish or mango curry tastes sweet rather than sour The mango was ripe, or the souring agent was short More kudampuli or a squeeze of lime Use raw green mango, and taste the gravy before the fish goes in R030
Fruit disintegrated into the gravy Cut too small, or cooked too long Serve it as a purée and call it one Larger wedges, added later R030 · R085
Gravy thin Not reduced before the protein went in Lift the fish out and reduce the gravy Reduce first, add last R030
Pulissery cloying Too much jaggery against the curd A squeeze of lime Halve the jaggery; the mango brings its own R085
Stringy and fibrous A fibrous mango variety Nothing Buy a low-fibre variety for this dish, or sieve the pulp R085
Rasam harsh, raw and puckering The tamarind was not cooked out Simmer another five minutes before the tempering Boil the tamarind water first, and add the podi late R086
Rasam flat and dull despite the tamarind Under-salted, or the podi is stale Salt, then a fresh pinch of podi off the heat Grind M03 in small batches R086
Rasam muddy rather than clear-tasting Boiled hard after the podi went in Nothing Take it off as the surface begins to froth, never at a rolling boil R086
Dal watery, or grey and dull Too much water, or the greens overcooked Reduce uncovered; add the greens later next time Measure the water, and fold greens in for the last three minutes R060
Greens stalky and unpleasant to eat Thick stalks left in Nothing Strip the leaves off the stalk before they go in the pan R066 · R060
Greens very bitter Mature leaves, or moringa leaves cooked too long Nothing Young leaves, and three minutes at most R066
Pachadi watery within the hour The vegetable was salted early, or boiled Drain the liquid off and fold in a spoon of ground coconut Salt at the last moment, and leave cucumber raw R091 · R078
Pachadi flat The mustard was not ground into the coconut Grind a pinch of mustard seed with a spoonful of the paste and fold it back Grind the mustard with the coconut, not after it R091

8. Shopping Lists

8.1 The starter pantry

Thirty lines, and with them you can cook the large majority of this book. Quantities assume a household of two to four and a first shop that will last two to three months on the dry goods. Everything here is in Chapter 12 with its buying, storing and substituting notes.

# Item Quantity What it unlocks
1 Unpolished parboiled matta rice 5 kg R015, R016, R020, R012, R023 and every plate in the book
2 Parboiled idli rice 2 kg M11, M12, R006 to R009
3 Matta rice flour, or puttu podi 1 kg R002, R003, R004, R005
4 Ragi flour 500 g M12, R003, R008, R021, R101
5 Urad dal, split and skinned 500 g M06, M11, M12, R009, R013, R079
6 Toor dal 1 kg M02, M03, R059, R086, R118
7 Moong dal, split and skinned 500 g R058, R060, R095, R104, R114, R117
8 Vanpayar, red cowpea 1 kg R012, R053, R054, R068, R071
9 Kadala, black chickpea 1 kg R010, R055, R061, R105
10 Frozen grated coconut 4 bags, about 400 g each 50 recipes; the single most useful item in this list
11 Tinned full-fat coconut milk, 17–22% fat 4 tins, 400 ml M08 and every mappas, olan, stew and payasam
12 Coconut oil 500 ml Where coconut oil is the flavour, in teaspoons
13 Sesame, gingelly, oil 500 ml R008, R009, R013, R096 to R098, R100, R101, R104, R105
14 Groundnut or rice bran oil 1 litre Shallow and deep frying, at 16–24% saturated fat against coconut oil's 91%
15 Mustard seed 200 g 47 recipes; where every tempering begins
16 Fenugreek seed 100 g 20 recipes, and the one spice Chapter 9 finds reachable through food
17 Cumin 200 g 27 recipes, and the coconut-and-cumin paste under avial and erissery
18 Coriander seed 400 g 21 recipes; a fish masala is mostly coriander by weight
19 Fennel 100 g 14 recipes; the signature of Malabar meat cooking
20 Black peppercorns 200 g 38 preparations
21 Ground turmeric 200 g 65 preparations
22 Kashmiri chilli powder, for colour 200 g 17 recipes; colour and heat are two different jobs
23 Dried red chillies 200 g 45 preparations
24 Cardamom, Ceylon cinnamon quills, cloves 50 g each M01, M04, the biryani, the stews, the payasams
25 Kudampuli 100 g R024, R026, R031, R057 — and it keeps two years
26 Tamarind, seedless block 500 g R059, R072, R084, R086, R098, R118, R119
27 Jaggery, cane or palm 500 g The sweets, and 3 g at a time as a corrective in savoury dishes
28 Curry leaves, fresh or frozen 2 large bunches 93 preparations. Strip and freeze; they go into hot oil from frozen
29 Shallots, ginger, garlic, green chillies 1 kg · 250 g · 250 g · 200 g M15, M16 and the base of almost everything
30 Fine salt, and food-grade potassium chloride 500 g · 100 g M07, the 70:30 blend — read its safety note before you make it

8.2 The full pantry, by category

Rices and grains — unpolished parboiled matta; Palakkadan Matta or rosematta; Kerala red rice; parboiled idli rice; raw short-grain rice (pachari, unakkalari); jeerakasala or gandhakasala; njavara; pokkali if you find it; matta rice flour and puttu podi; wheat puttu podi; coarse wholemeal wheat flour (atta); coarse semolina (rava); ragi flour; little millet (samai); rolled oats; aval, flattened rice; dried rice ada.

Pulses — vanpayar (red cowpea); muthira (horse gram); kadala (black chickpea); toor dal; moong dal, split and skinned; whole green gram (cherupayar); urad dal, split and skinned, and whole black urad for tempering; chana dal (kadala parippu); roasted Bengal gram (pottukadala).

Coconut — whole mature coconuts; frozen grated coconut; tinned full-fat coconut milk at 17–22% fat; desiccated coconut as a last resort; copra for podis.

Oils and fats — coconut oil; sesame (gingelly) oil, the light Indian kind and not the dark toasted one; groundnut oil; rice bran oil; ghee.

Souring agents — kudampuli; seedless tamarind block; kokum; limes; curd; coconut vinegar (kaadi); raw green mango, fresh or frozen in slices.

Whole spices — mustard seed; fenugreek; cumin; coriander seed; fennel; black peppercorns; dried red chillies, both a mild colour chilli and a hot one; green cardamom; Ceylon cinnamon quills; cloves; star anise; nutmeg and mace; bay leaf.

Ground spices and blends — turmeric; Kashmiri chilli powder; hot chilli powder; asafoetida; and the house blends M01 to M06, which are cheaper, fresher and better than anything in a packet.

Fresh aromatics — shallots; ginger; garlic; green chillies; curry leaves; coriander leaf; mint; pandan if your shop has it.

Tubers and starchy vegetables — chena (elephant foot yam); chembu (colocasia); koorka (Chinese potato); kappa (tapioca); sweet potato; potato.

Plantain and banana — green plantain; ripe Nendran; banana stem; banana flower; banana leaves.

Greens and vegetables — cheera (amaranth); moringa leaves; drumstick pods; ash gourd; snake gourd; bitter gourd; okra; cluster beans; French beans; cabbage; carrot; beetroot; cucumber; tomato; raw green papaya; tender green jackfruit.

Fish and seafood — mackerel; sardine; anchovy or whitebait; seer fish or kingfish; pearl spot; pomfret, snapper or bream; prawns; mussels; squid; dried fish (unakka meen), kept in the freezer.

Meat, poultry and eggs — chicken, bone-in; stewing beef; goat or mutton on the bone; duck legs; liver; eggs.

Dairy — plain full-fat curd; milk; ghee.

Sweeteners — cane jaggery; palm jaggery (karuppatti); coconut sap sugar. Chapter 12 says plainly that jaggery is unrefined sugar and behaves like sugar; its advantage is that it tastes better, which lets you use less.

Preserved and fermented — homemade or small-producer achar; pappadams, to be roasted rather than fried; the house batters M10, M11 and M12, in the fridge on rotation.

Odds and ends — cashew nuts; raisins; nannari root; tea dust; food-grade potassium chloride for M07; muslin; banana leaf or parchment for parcels.

8.3 The weekly fresh list — a blank template

Photocopy this page. It is organised by the order you walk a shop rather than by food group, because that is what stops you going back for the coriander.

Produce — greens and gourds

Item Quantity Got it
Curry leaves
Green chillies
Shallots
Ginger
Garlic
Coriander leaf
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______

Produce — vegetables and tubers

Item Quantity Got it
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______

Fish counter and freezer

Item Quantity Got it
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______

Meat, poultry and eggs

Item Quantity Got it
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______

Dairy

Item Quantity Got it
Curd
________ ______
________ ______

Frozen

Item Quantity Got it
Grated coconut
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______

Dry goods to top up

Item Quantity Got it
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______
________ ______

Already in the pantry — do not buy again this week

8.4 Sourcing by country

What the difficult items are called where you live, and where in a shop to look. Shop categories are given rather than chain names, because chains change and categories do not.

Item Ask for it as United States United Kingdom Gulf states Canada Australia Singapore
Matta rice Kerala Matta, Rosematta, red parboiled rice South Asian grocer, 5–10 kg bags Widely stocked; also Sri Lankan grocers Stocked as a staple in most large groceries South Asian grocer Sri Lankan and Indian grocers Little India shops and large supermarkets
Jeerakasala Kaima, seeraga samba South Asian grocer Kerala- and Tamil-facing shops Common South Asian grocer Sri Lankan grocers Little India shops
Kudampuli Malabar tamarind, fish tamarind, gambooge Online spice sellers; posts well as it is light and dry Kerala grocers and online Common Online and South Asian grocers Online Little India shops
Frozen grated coconut Frozen grated coconut, unsweetened Freezer aisle, South Asian, Thai, Filipino or Caribbean Same Common Same Same, plus Sri Lankan Common
Coconut milk, 17–22% fat Full-fat coconut milk, tinned Thai and South Asian brands; read the fat percentage, not the front label Same Common Same Same Common
Curry leaves Curry leaves, kadi patta Fresh in South Asian grocers; frozen elsewhere Fresh, widely Fresh, cheap Fresh or frozen Fresh; also grown at home Fresh, cheap
Drumstick, muringakka Drumstick, moringa pods, saijan Frozen, South Asian Fresh in season, frozen otherwise Fresh, common Frozen Fresh in Sri Lankan shops Fresh, common
Moringa leaves Moringa, drumstick leaves, malunggay Filipino shops carry frozen malunggay South Asian grocers Fresh Filipino and South Asian Fresh Common
Ash gourd Winter melon, wax gourd, dong gua Chinese grocers, sold in wedges Chinese and South Asian Common Chinese grocers Chinese grocers Common
Snake gourd Snake gourd, pudalangai, chichinda South Asian grocer South Asian grocer Common Seasonal Sri Lankan grocers Common
Bitter gourd Bitter gourd, bitter melon, karela, ku gua South Asian and Chinese Widely Common Widely Widely Common
Amaranth, cheera Callaloo, yin choy, Chinese spinach, thotakura Caribbean and Chinese grocers Caribbean and South Asian Common Caribbean and Chinese Chinese grocers Common
Tender jackfruit Green jackfruit in brine, tinned Now mainstream through the vegan aisle Same Fresh and frozen Same Same Fresh and tinned
Koorka Chinese potato, coleus Frozen, peeled, South Asian Frozen Frozen and fresh Frozen Frozen Frozen
Kappa Cassava, yuca, frozen cassava chunks Caribbean, Latin American, West African freezers Same Fresh and frozen Same Same Common
Green plantain Green plantain, plátano verde Caribbean and Latin American grocers, better than Indian shops Same Fresh Nendran available Same Same Common
Vanpayar Red cowpea; black-eyed bean, lobia, as a fallback South Asian grocer South Asian grocer Common South Asian grocer South Asian grocer Common
Muthira Horse gram, kollu, kulthi, hurali South Asian grocer Tamil- and Kerala-facing shops Common Online Sri Lankan grocers Little India shops
Kadala Kala chana, desi chana, brown chickpea Widely Widely Common Widely Widely Common
Jaggery Jaggery block or powder; panela, piloncillo South Asian; Latin American shops as panela Widely Common Widely Widely Common
Unakka meen Dried fish; tuyo, dilis in Filipino shops Kerala- and Sri Lanka-facing shops, or Filipino aisle Same Common Same Sri Lankan grocers Common
Coconut vinegar Kaadi, coconut vinegar Filipino aisle is the reliable source Kerala grocers and online Common Filipino aisle Filipino aisle Common
Ceylon cinnamon True cinnamon, Ceylon cinnamon, Cinnamomum verum Sri Lankan grocers, or a spice specialist Sri Lankan grocers Common Spice specialists Sri Lankan grocers Common
Karimeen Pearl spot Rarely available Rarely available Sometimes frozen Rarely available Rarely available Sometimes
Banana leaf Banana leaf, frozen Freezer aisle, Thai or Latin American Thai and Caribbean Fresh Thai and Latin American Fresh and frozen Fresh
Nannari Nannari root, anantamool, Hemidesmus indicus Online, or a Kerala grocer Online Sometimes Online Online Little India shops

And where an item genuinely is not there.

Item Substitute What changes
Matta rice Any parboiled red or brown short-grain rice, brown basmati, or Sri Lankan red parboiled You lose the earthy bite and gain a longer, more separate grain — fine under a stew, wrong under a kudampuli curry
Jeerakasala Seeraga samba, or basmati in less water You lose the aroma the dish is named for
Kudampuli 15 g tamarind pulp for three pieces The curry becomes rounder and brighter, and does not improve overnight
Fresh or frozen grated coconut Desiccated, 25 g soaked in 25 ml warm water for 10–15 minutes per 50 g replaced Drier and sweeter; it will never grind to a glossy paste, and a thoran depends on the coconut still holding water
Curry leaves None. Omit rather than replace The dish becomes a different dish, and dried leaf is a duller ingredient rather than a substitute
Ash gourd Courgette, or Chinese winter melon Wetter and blander; reduce the added water
Snake gourd Courgette Wetter and blander
Moringa leaves Spinach, with less added water The protein and fibre fall substantially; the dish still works
Amaranth, cheera Spinach, chard or callaloo, with less added water Spinach is wetter and milder
Kerala shallots Banana shallots or small red onions at about three-quarters the weight A wetter, milder base that needs longer to reduce; a large onion changes a curry more than changing the fish does
Limes Lemon at about three-quarters the quantity Rounder, less floral acidity
Raw green mango Tamarind with a little green apple for body, or amchur at about 1 teaspoon per 100 g replaced You lose the flesh, which in a mango curry is half the dish
Coconut oil, for volume frying Groundnut, rice bran or light sesame Saturated fat falls sharply; where coconut oil is the flavour rather than the medium, the dish changes and the recipe says so
Kadala, soaked and cooked Tinned chickpeas or black-eyed beans, rinsed A legitimate Tuesday shortcut; rinse them, because the brine is where the sodium is
Karimeen Any small firm whole fish — sea bream, tilapia, pomfret The dish works; the fish that gave it its name does not travel
Coconut vinegar Cider vinegar at the same volume A little sharper
Pappadams and pickles from a jar Homemade, or a small producer with a short ingredients list Commercial versions carry acetic acid, preservative and often far more oil and salt

9. Reader Tools and Trackers

Six pages built to be photocopied or written on. Nothing here is a substitute for a clinician, a laboratory or a scale, and none of it needs an app.

9.1 Weekly measurement log

Before you fill in the first row, read Chapter 3 again. The short version, because the technique is what makes the number mean anything. The tape goes at the midpoint between the lowest palpable rib and the top of the iliac crest, not at the navel and not at the waistband of your trousers. First thing in the morning, after the bathroom, before eating or drinking. Standing, feet together or a hand's width apart, weight even, arms relaxed. Read at the end of a normal exhalation, not on a held breath. Against bare skin, or one thin layer. The tape flat all the way round and level with the floor at the back as well as the front, snug but not denting you. Take three readings and use the middle one if they disagree by more than half a centimetre; if they disagree by more than 2 cm your landmark has moved and you should find the bones again. The same tape, the same morning of the week, every week.

Waist-to-height ratio is your waist in centimetres divided by your height in centimetres. Chapter 3 sets out why this is the primary number in this book: a ratio above 0.5 is the boundary value, the same for men and women, and it discriminates adverse cardiometabolic outcomes 4–5% better than BMI. If you would rather not do the arithmetic, cut a string to your height, fold it in half, and pass it round your waist: if the ends meet, you are under 0.5.

My height: __ cm · Half my height: __ cm

Week Date Weight, kg Waist, cm Waist ÷ height Notes
1 __ __ __ __ ________
2 __ __ __ __ ________
3 __ __ __ __ ________
4 __ __ __ __ ________
5 __ __ __ __ ________
6 __ __ __ __ ________
7 __ __ __ __ ________
8 __ __ __ __ ________
9 __ __ __ __ ________
10 __ __ __ __ ________
11 __ __ __ __ ________
12 __ __ __ __ ________

Weight is noisy over a week and honest over a month; the waist is quieter and is measuring the compartment that matters. If you keep one number, keep the waist.

9.2 Blood work log

Four dated columns, so that a change is visible as a line rather than remembered as an impression. Write the units your laboratory uses, because they differ between countries and mixing them is how people frighten themselves.

Reading these results, deciding what they mean and deciding what to do about them belongs to your clinician. This page is a place to write them down, and nothing more. Nothing in this book asks you to start, stop or alter any medication.

Test Date __ Date __ Date __ Date __
HbA1c __ __ __ __
Fasting plasma glucose __ __ __ __
Total cholesterol __ __ __ __
LDL cholesterol __ __ __ __
HDL cholesterol __ __ __ __
Non-HDL cholesterol __ __ __ __
Triglycerides __ __ __ __
ALT, alanine aminotransferase __ __ __ __
AST, aspartate aminotransferase __ __ __ __
Weight on the day, kg __ __ __ __
Waist on the day, cm __ __ __ __

Non-HDL cholesterol is simply total cholesterol minus HDL, and you can work it out yourself from any lipid panel. On timing, Chapter 3 is specific: three months is the shortest interval at which repeating an HbA1c tells you anything real, because repeating it after four weeks measures mostly the four weeks before you started.

Notes for my next appointment:

9.3 The habit grid

The four habits of the 7-Day Reset, carried across 28 days. Habits one to three are daily. Habit four is weekly, so tick it once in the row for the morning you measured.

1 Half the plate vegetables · 2 A pulse at every main meal · 3 Oil measured, not poured · 4 Measured this week

Day 1 · Half vegetables 2 · A pulse 3 · Oil measured 4 · Measured
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Two of these four are the best-supported instructions in the book. The pulse is Chapter 7's central practical finding: 50 g of cooked pulses a day eaten with brown rice took the glycaemic response 22.9% below white rice, where switching the rice and stopping there reached 19.8%. The measured oil is Chapter 13's, and the arithmetic is unforgiving — a curry for four cooked with 20 g of oil rather than 10 g carries about 89 extra kilocalories a portion, invisibly, at every meal.

9.4 Weekly meal planner — blank template

Seven days by four meals. Fill in recipe numbers rather than dish names; it is faster, and it forces you to look the recipe up before you shop rather than after.

Day Breakfast Lunch Evening or snack Dinner
Monday __ __ __ __
Tuesday __ __ __ __
Wednesday __ __ __ __
Thursday __ __ __ __
Friday __ __ __ __
Saturday __ __ __ __
Sunday __ __ __ __

Check before you shop. Is there a pulse on every lunch and dinner line? Is half of each plate a vegetable dish? Is there a fish line at least twice? Have you written down which grain, and how much?

Shopping-list panel for the week above

Produce Fish, meat, eggs Dairy and frozen Dry goods
__ __ __ __
__ __ __ __
__ __ __ __
__ __ __ __
__ __ __ __
__ __ __ __
__ __ __ __
__ __ __ __

9.5 Batch-cooking planner — blank template

The mother preparations and the batch-friendly recipes are in section 6.1. A Sunday that produces four containers and three frozen cubes of base masala is worth more than a week of intentions.

Slot Preparation Recipe no. Portions Fridge or freezer Use by
Soak the night before __ __ __ __ __
Set to ferment the night before __ __ __ __ __
First hour __ __ __ __ __
Second hour __ __ __ __ __
Third hour __ __ __ __ __
While something else cooks __ __ __ __ __
Portioned into containers __ __ __ __ __
Into the freezer __ __ __ __ __

What is already in the freezer, and until when

Item Recipe no. Date frozen Portions Use by
__ __ __ __ __
__ __ __ __ __
__ __ __ __ __
__ __ __ __ __
__ __ __ __ __
__ __ __ __ __
__ __ __ __ __
__ __ __ __ __

9.6 Recipes I have cooked

The most useful page in the book after about a year, and the reason to own this on paper. Write in it even when the dish went wrong, especially when the dish went wrong.

Date Recipe no. What I changed Cook it again
__ __ ________ __
__ __ ________ __
__ __ ________ __
__ __ ________ __
__ __ ________ __
__ __ ________ __
__ __ ________ __
__ __ ________ __
__ __ ________ __
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10. A Note on Further Reading

A short shelf, annotated. Every title below is a real book that exists, and where an edition or an authorial detail is genuinely uncertain that is said rather than tidied away. None of these is a health book, and that is the point: read them for the food and the history, and take the metabolic argument from the chapters and the bibliography of this one.

The Kerala shelf, in English

Vijayan Kannampilly, The Essential Kerala Cookbook (Penguin India). The standard reference: comprehensive, community-aware and unfussy. If a Kerala cookbook in English is canonical, this is it. Buy it if you buy only one.

Ammini Ramachandran, Grains, Greens and Grated Coconuts: Recipes and Remembrances of a Vegetarian Legacy (2007). The best-researched book on Palakkad Brahmin vegetarian cooking and the strongest food-historical writing by any Kerala author. Her demolition of the reflex that anything steamed or fermented in Kerala must be a colonial import is the argument this book leans on in Chapter 12: the Portuguese and Dutch had neither coconut nor bamboo in their own kitchens.

Ummi Abdulla, Malabar Muslim Cookery (Orient Longman, 1981). The canonical Mappila text and one of the most important regional cookbooks published in India: 143 recipes, step-by-step illustrations by Anant Kulkarni, and more pages given to sweets and egg dishes than to vegetables — which is itself an ethnographic finding. Two generations of expatriate Mappilas have cooked from it.

Lathika George, The Suriani Kitchen, and the same author's The Kerala Kitchen: Recipes and Recollections from the Syrian Christians of South India (Hippocrene, in several editions including an expanded one with a foreword by Abraham Verghese). The reference work on Syrian Christian cooking, with substantial historical framing, and the source of the best single line about the community: "Hindu in culture, Christian in religion, and Syro-Oriental in worship."

Maya Kaimal, Curried Favors: Family Recipes from South India (1996), reissued as Savoring the Spice Coast of India: Fresh Flavors from Kerala (2000). The book that introduced Kerala food to the American mainstream. Warm, accurate, family-sourced.

Mrs K. M. Mathew, Flavours of the Spice Coast, and the Penguin centenary compilation Mrs K. M. Mathew's Finest Recipes. Annamma Mathew, 1922–2003, is the founding figure of Kerala food writing in any language: her first column, Pachakavidhi, appeared in Malayala Manorama on 30 May 1953, and she wrote for five decades. She travelled Kerala visiting households to document regional cooking, which makes her the first person to treat the state's community cuisines as a subject for systematic field collection.

The history and scholarship

K. T. Achaya, Indian Food: A Historical Companion (Oxford University Press, 1994) and A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food (Oxford University Press, 1998); also The Story of Our Food. The indispensable source, and the one every serious Indian food book cites. Achaya was a food scientist, and his books' central virtue is that they say when they do not know. His summary of the Portuguese introductions — the "floodgate" of potato, tomato, tapioca, groundnut, maize, papaya, pineapple, guava, cashew, and chilli in all its forms — is behind Chapter 2 of this book, and his Sangam-era datings of appam, idiyappam, idli and dosa are behind Chapter 12.

Colleen Taylor Sen, Feasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India (Reaktion, 2015); also Curry: A Global History and Food Culture in India. The best single modern narrative history of Indian food, and strong on religious dietary systems and on the six-taste framework.

Lizzie Collingham, Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors (2006). The standard popular history of Indian food's collisions with empire, and excellent on the Portuguese introductions and on Anglo-Indian food. Note that the author publishes as both Lizzie Collingham and E. M. Collingham, so check the edition when you order it.

Federico De Romanis, The Indo-Roman Pepper Trade and the Muziris Papyrus (Oxford Studies on the Roman Economy, 2020). The scholarly foundation for the pepper history in Chapter 2: the Hermapollon, the tonnages, the tetarte. Not a light read, and the only place to get the trade right.

Salma Husain, The Emperor's Table: The Art of Mughal Cuisine, and her translation of the Nuskha-e-Shahjahani. The authority on Mughal court cooking, and therefore the reference point for establishing what Thalassery biryani is not.

Marryam H. Reshii, The Flavour of Spice (Hachette India, 2017). Not a Kerala book, and the best contemporary Indian writing on spice as a material. Read it alongside Chapter 9.

Mrs Balbir Singh's Indian Cookery (1961). Not Kerala, and the book that established the modern Indian cookbook in English. Worth having for the chronology alone: Malayalam food journalism began in 1953, eight years before the canonical English-language Indian cookbook.

V. Nagam Aiya, Travancore State Manual (1906). A colonial administrator's survey rather than a food book, and the earliest crisp documentary statement of tapioca's social position in Kerala — "the poor man's food par excellence". The Cochin State Manual is its companion.

Two things worth knowing before you go looking

The printed Malayalam cookbook is a twentieth-century form. Before it, recipes lived in Ayurvedic compendia such as the Sahasrayogam and the Cikitsamanjari, in temple kitchen practice, and in household oral transmission. That is a more interesting and more honest claim than inventing a lineage, and a reader who goes hunting for a nineteenth-century Malayalam cookbook should know they may not find one.

And for readers with Malayalam, the scholarship on Malabar foodways is largely in Malayalam. Dr Azeez Tharuvana's essay "Malabar Cuisine: History, Culture and the Present", published by Sahapedia, is the best short scholarly treatment in English and cites the Malayalam sources worth chasing, among them Nysa Ayesha's Athishayapathiri, which documents about forty varieties of pathiri.

What is not on this list

There is no Kerala diet cookbook to recommend, because there was not one. The Indian diabetic cookbooks that are credible are pan-Indian and North-Indian by default: Azmina Govindji and Sanjeev Kapoor, Healthy Indian Cooking for Diabetes (Grub Street) is the most reliable of them, and May Abraham Fridel's Indian Cuisine Diabetes Cookbook and Sobia Khan's 150 Best Indian, Asian, Caribbean and More Diabetes Recipes (Robert Rose) are both written by qualified people. None of them addresses a plate built on matta rice, coconut, tapioca, jackfruit and daily fish, which is why this book exists.


11. About the Author

Reshmi R Nair is an applied linguist and educator. Her working life has been spent in Malayalam and English language education, in curriculum design and in educational publishing — which is to say, in the practical question of how a person is taught something they did not already know, and how a page has to be built for that teaching to survive the reading.

This book came out of that discipline rather than out of a restaurant kitchen. It is written by someone inside this food, cooking it at home, and by someone in the habit of checking a claim against its source before printing it. Where the evidence is strong, this book states it plainly and cites it. Where the evidence is weak or absent, the book says so and prints nothing in its place. That second habit is the one she would most like a reader to take away.

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